Glenn Martens might be busy readying his first couture show for Maison Margiela to be unveiled next month, but he isn’t leaving his Diesel tribe behind.

Only it’s getting increasingly dressier in its own way, too, compared to the early stages of the designer’s tenure at the denim powerhouse, where very short-hemmed fashions, distressed effects and popping colors best expressed the brand’s irreverent nature.

Now that same spirit is conveyed in a subtler way via fashion archetypes revisited with a denim-centric touch and toying with optical illusions that are dear to Martens.

Trickling down some of the concepts introduced at Diesel’s latest runway show in February, his accessible resort 2026 collection riffed on cocktail dresses, full skirts and sartorial staples, here updated with a youthful sense of ease and a laid back attitude.

Denim and trompe-l’oeil effects reigned in this rejigging process, as seen in below-the-knee frocks and bon ton-like collarless jackets cut from Neoprene but treated to mimic denim or, conversely, denim trenchcoats and blazer jackets covered in faded tweed checks. A bonded wool and Neoprene double-breasted coat also pointed to a more mature direction with its slightly hourglass silhouette, which was enriched with a knitted collar doubling as a hood. 

Tailoring was particularly cool in relaxed, fluid proportions that could tempt even the most reluctant Gen Zer into approaching the corporate world just for the sake of a new outfit. Key pieces here included double-breasted jackets with trompe-l’oeil draping, paired with a hybrid between a skirt and pants or with a skirt covered with graffiti tags, in a nod to the fall 2025 show and its striking set-up.

Leather served as another canvas for Martens, as seen in trompe-l’oeil biker jackets or belted coats merging leather and denim. Elsewhere, Martens continued to print knitted sweaters on the inside for a washed-out color effect; to slick denim sets with transparent sequins for extra shine, and to tap into a more athletic vibe via zippered knitted minidresses and soccer-inspired separates.