
Giambattista Valli travels to Morocco so frequently, its medinas, spice markets, gardens and flower stalls have practically become permanent elements of his mood board.
His transporting spring couture show explored the more fantastical side of Marrakech via puffball skirts, and regal caftans in fancy jacquards glinting like 24-karat gold.
For resort, he kept the same nomadic spirit in a more approachable wardrobe of crisp daywear and flowing occasion dresses, all with a perfume of North Africa via mouthwatering colors like pomegranate, saffron and pistachio, and prints reminiscent of rugs and marquetry.
“I’m always obsessed with this kind of Orientalism,” Valli said. “It’s one of the strong sides of my style.”
He imagined his Valli girls taking a walk through the peaceful, oasis-like Menara Gardens in Marrakech, or a bustling open-air market.
“I love her to be curious about other cultures, curious about other people, sharing other moods,” he mused during an interview.
While Valli styled some of his outfits with crocheted “tarboosh” hats, and opulent jewelry fit for a maharaja, he insisted “there is nothing folkloric” about the silhouettes, exalting Parisian chic as always.
“There are two lengths — short and long. Our customers are really into the two,” he said as an explanation for his leggy minidresses and embroidered HotPants, and the flowing dresses in cotton voile or poplin, floral macramé or delicate “rosebud” fil coupé.
Flat shoes — including embroidered satin slippers reminiscent of Moroccan “babouches” and flower-studded sandals — further grounded the collection in reality, with the right doses of escapism.
Ditto the leather goods: His popular and squishy AirBags now come embellished with crystal paisleys and mirror embroideries.
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