The summer social season in London peaks with the Royal Ascot, the premier horse racing event, spanning one week in June. The event brings together royals, friends and admirers to not only bet on horses but for a celebration of British sartorial splendor under a strict dress code. The Ascot, established in 1711 by Queen Anne, an avid horse racing fan, introduced its first strict dress code in the early 19th century. Today, it remains a tribute to regal elegance and fanciful whimsy.

Fashion has always been central to the Royal Ascot. As Women’s Wear Daily called it, it is “the most important event of the London season from a fashion point of view.” Guests attend the Ascot in four designated enclosures: The Royal, The Queen Anne, Village, and Windsor, each with its own specific dress code, ranging from refined to casual. The Royal Enclosure, exclusive to royals and their invited guests, is the pinnacle of the week’s style, particularly on “Ladies Day or “Gold Cup Day” when the fashion extravaganza is on full display.

WWD has covered the Ascot since the early 1900s, chronicling the highs and sartorial missteps over the decades. From color schemes — particularly the preferences of Queens Anne, Mary and Elizabeth for shades of blue, gray and yellow — to dress and skirt lengths, and all the whimsical hats created with self-inspired artistic flair, fashion at Ascot has long been a spectacle. Yet not all guests adhered to the dress code, and certain trends failed to meet its standard.

In 1911, French designer Paul Poiret’s popular hobble skirts and body-shaping styles of the era were prohibited for an audience with the queen. While many adhered to the code, others, including Spain’s Marchioness de Villa Urrutia of Spain, ignored them and famously struggled to curtesy properly in front of the queen, WWD wrote.

By the 1920s, as fashion evolved, Ascot attendees embraced the freer trends of the era. Diaphanous silhouettes in black crepe or satin, paired with lace fringe wraps and accessorized with parasols and picturesque garden hats, became the norm.

World War I and World War II shuttered the Ascot, but as elegance returned to fashion, WWD highlighted the emergence of post-couture fashions at the event in its “They Are Wearing” section. Dior’s now-iconic “New Look,” accessorized with matching hats and gloves, dominated women’s attire in the enclosures, while men’s bespoke morning suits and top hats remained the standard.

During the 1970s, the Ascot temporarily embraced Youthquake trends. Fringe and pantsuits were permitted, provided they were paired with hats. HotPants, however, were strictly barred — though WWD reported in 1971 that one guest managed to sneak them under her skirt. By the 1980s, Princess Diana’s love for fashion brought new attention to the event. While she adhered to the dress codes, she also modernized them with above-the-knee tailored skirt suits and plunging necklines.

The blend of tradition and modernity persists today. In 2012, the Ascot introduced its first official style guide to help racegoers navigate the dress code. Following Queen Elizabeth II’s passing in 2024, English designer Daniel Fletcher was appointed the Ascot’s first creative director. His contemporary approach seen on the official Ascot website pays homage to the Ascot’s fashion traditions while ensuring its relevance for future generations.