Ludovico Bruno’s passion for martial arts punches through in his work. His powerful physique speaks to relentless hours in the gym—and also explains why his line, Mordecai, leans into extra-large, roomy proportions. “I basically design garments I can wear myself,” he said during a preview of his spring collection, which fittingly took place in a gym typically used for fencing practice. The casting was about real athletes from wrestling and karate schools, performing live judo moves throughout the presentation, blurring the line between runway and dojo with gentle intensity.

Judokas’ stances often resemble an embrace—carnal, yes, but also deeply respectful, even in the heat of competition. This idea of the embrace took on new emotional weight after Bruno came across an image of two brothers reuniting after being separated by war. It was both visceral and tender, and that intimacy sparked a shift in the collection: silhouettes were pulled tighter to the body, volumes pared back to let the form speak. Yet they also let it breathe through light, airy fabrics for ease of movement and velocity. 

Bruno honed his craft at Moncler, and his deep knowledge of sophisticated technical sportswear construction shines through in his outerwear: elaborate simplicity meets utilitarian function with a visionary edge. His piuminos hugged the torso, padded almost anatomically to mimic the contours of chiseled six-pack abs (no crunches required), layered over billowing parachute harem pants cinched at the ankles. Souvenirs from his travels were woven throughout, and came in the form of vibrant Suzani-printed trousers disrupting a palette of cool neutrals, and voluminous yarn-dyed black-and-white striped dusters evoking the texture and geometry of Atlas carpets. 

“Martial arts are as much about ritual as they are about discipline,” said Bruno, who approaches his fitness routine with near-religious devotion. At Mordecai, even a sharply tailored blazer nods to the silhouette of a Japanese kimono, and channels the elegant utility of a judo uniform.