
PARIS — What might the Jimmy Fairly of beauty be like?
It is Firn, the brainchild of Sacha Bostoni, who cofounded that pioneering eyewear brand 14 years ago.
“It’s product first, a good brand and good price,” he said. “If you do that — you can do anything. You see Jimmy Fairly bags all over the place. Apart from selling eyewear, we really innovate in this brand space.”
He called Jimmy Fairly — a French equivalent to Warby Parker in the U.S. — a “love brand,” which can easily stretch into other product categories. Bostoni left Jimmy Fairly two years ago, when it was sold to investment fund HLD. He then moved to the south of France and bought a farm, which introduced him to cosmetic active ingredients.
Bostoni noted parallels between the beauty space today and the eyewear sector when he started Jimmy Fairly. The environment was noisy, with many brands doing similar things both product- and retail-wise. Today, he finds the shopping experience undifferentiated, as many cosmetics brands — especially in Europe — launch just in pharmacies and parapharmacies or online.
As with eyewear, Bostoni said his goal with other Firn cofounders is to return to the core of a product — its performance. He contacted Fred Zülli, a pioneering doctor who works with alpine stem cells, which are known for their resilience and longevity properties.
Zülli created an ingredient called Thirty Days Stem Cell Complex, or STM30, which works on wrinkles, dark circles and dehydration. “It is for the skin and also for the body in general,” Bostoni said.
The complex has a mix of stem cell culture from Alpine rose and a microorganism living in a Swiss glacier that purports to rejuvenate skin and stimulate Adenosine triphosphate, or ATP, a key energy source for skin cells.
Firn is a Swiss-German word referring to a type of snow recrystallized on a glacier, where the microorganism was discovered.
“There is space for really high-performance products, but with an affordable price,” said Bostoni, who serves as Firn’s chief executive officer. “That’s the whole model — Polène for bags, Sézane for fashion, Jimmy Fairly for eyewear and Firn for cosmetics.”
The brand is launching with the Multi-Corrective Cream and five serums, all containing STM30. There’s a serum with vitamin C for glow.
A Firn serum
Courtesy of Firn
“Then you have four serums that act on different skin types,” said Clémence de Stabenrath, another of Firn’s cofounders and its product director, who has worked at L’Oréal and Typology.
The serum for greasy skin has salicylic acid; for pigmentation has niacinamide; for first signs of aging has bakuchiol, and for advanced signs of aging has retinol, at 0.3 percent.
Firn formulas, which contain between 85 percent and 99.9 percent natural ingredients, is dedicating 1 percent of its sales to a nonprofit helping farmers.
Raphaële Four, founder of the Girls in Paris lingerie brand, is Firn’s other cofounder, who is focused on branding. She created the cream’s packaging that’s a Bakalite dome inspired by a 1970s lamp.
Firn’s 50-ml. cream will retail for 55 euros, while the 15-ml. serums range from 25 euros to 29 euros. Having no intermediaries helps keep the prices down, according to Bostoni, who views cosmetics as a “product” rather than a “marketing” industry. “There is no marketing in Firn,” he said.
The brand products are launching exclusively at Oh My Cream online, followed by Firn’s digital platform in September and in its own stores, beginning with two in Paris, in November.
“I’m trying to replicate what I learned, how to build a unique retail experience, which right now is something lacking a lot in all kinds of markets, but especially in cosmetics,” Bostoni said. “There are no performance brands that have a great retail experience.”
Firn stores will stock products in different categories, such as hair care and body care, alongside skin care. “It’s a really long-term project,” Bostoni said.
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