The Marc Jacobs Dollhouse Expands With Playfully Voluminous Gowns, Oversized Bows and a Softened Color Palette

In a dimly lit hall of the New York Public Library on Monday evening, Marc Jacobs debuted its “Runway 2026” collection. Set to the sounds of eerily melodic chimes, the presentation displayed a lineup that built upon the doll-like themes Jacobs proposed for Spring 2024. Only this time, rather than flattened, oversized shapes, the designer prioritized volume at all angles, creating ensembles with puff pastry-like shoulders and beautifully bulky skirts fit for an extraordinarily fashionable Victorian doll.

Although the collection is over the top in every way, Jacobs strikes a balance by rendering his cloud-shaped silhouettes in a softened color palette. Faded lavenders and yellows punctuate the 19-look lineup, sometimes taking up the entirety of a billowing floor-length gown or serving as the subtle background to a delicate plaid. There’s also a moment for bright whites, whether in lacy, bridal-adjacent blouses or a dress that may or may not also serve as a duvet.

The show also debuted a new accessory, just not within the collection. In the front row, friends of the brand — including Sai De Silva, June Ambrose and Julia Fox — each carried a new Marc Jacobs bag, The Cristina. In shades of black, off-white and a warm burgundy, the ruched, crescent-shaped design is already available for purchase on the Marc Jacobs website.

Julia Fox (left) and June Ambrose (right) carry the new Cristina bag at the Marc Jacobs Runway 2026 show.

Photos&colon; Jason Lowrie for BFA&period;com/Courtesy of Marc Jacobs

As for accoutrements shown on the runway, Jacobs successfully brought back the structured bow in a variety of sizes, styling them as if they were stickers placed atop models’ hair and waistbands for an even more playful approach.

The designer summarized the collection simply, with a definition from the American Heritage Dictionary: “Beauty. A quality or combination of qualities that gives pleasure to the mind or senses and is often associated with properties such as harmony of form or color, proportion and authenticity.”

Below, see every look from the Marc Jacobs Runway 2026 show.