Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena have emerged among the new guard of London fashion for turning their niche aesthetic into a growing business.

During a preview, the duo behind Chopova Lowena, winner of the 150,000 pound BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, said its three-year-old e-commerce is nearly as profitable as its wholesale business.

At the show, there was a clear sense of elevation. The venue was reimagined as a Chopova Lowena-branded American football field-side experience with mascots serving crisps and newly launched fragrances permeating the room.

Emo cheerleaders marched down the runway, donning Chopova Lowena pop culture-meets-Bulgarian folklore uniforms in the most luxurious treatments to date. One could tell how much effort the duo has gone into to elevate classic Chopova Lowena staples like the carabiner pleated skirts, bustier dresses, and graphic tees.

The texture collages, color combinations, and dangling metal and plastic embellishments were seizure-inducingly fun and, more importantly, looked more expensive and well finished than ever.

“We were attracted by the stereotype of the cheerleader. She was, in a way, the girl who bullied us, but also the girl we wanted to be. As we got further into the collection research, we saw that cheerleading creates a strong community for girls. We really like the idea that emo girls and outsiders are taking up cheerleading,” the duo said about the theme.

This season they also played with chainmails, faux fur, ribbons, and elements of American football, showcased two new bags for their ongoing partnership with Sony headphones, fitted their perfume bottles into leather holders, and debuted a water bottle collaboration with Chilly’s.