DUBAI — In a break from traditional runway formats, Rahul Mishra presented his AFEW spring 2026 collection, titled “Fresh,” in an intimate showcase that prioritized interaction over spectacle.

AFEW Rahul Mishra, the designer’s ready-to-wear label, serves as an accessible entry point to the Mishra universe, offering what the designer calls “easy-to-wear” pieces where “artistry can be easily worn.”

The spring 2026 collection centered on India’s textile heritage, with Madras checks serving as the primary narrative thread. “When we start working, sometimes to reach the destination, the starting point has to be different,” Mishra explained in an interview. “For this collection, textiles became the starting point because that is something Rahul Mishra was known for when we started.”

The designer traced the humble origins of India’s much loved handwoven Madras cotton checks, noting how they “grew out of India’s long summers” and were traditionally worn by commoners. “There’s nothing special about it in society’s social norms,” he observed, “but it carries beautiful artistry, beautiful thought process, beautiful storytelling.”

Mishra’s exploration extended beyond Madras checks to include seersucker, another textile with Indian roots. “Seersucker took its name from Hindi and Persian — ‘sheer o shakar,’ meaning milk and sugar,” he explained, referencing the fabric’s contrasting smooth and textured surfaces. The collection also incorporated khadi and other handloom explorations, creating what the designer called “interesting separates” that could integrate with existing wardrobes.

The season’s concept — “Fresh: Familiar, Reimagined, Evolving, Simple, Human” — manifested in pieces that transformed everyday silhouettes. A black T-shirt carried subtle Madras check floral patterns, while tailored trousers featured check pleats hidden within interior seams. The standout pieces included corseted tops with dramatic balloon bottoms, where precise tailoring created cloudlike volumes that appeared to float on the body. Balloon skirts featured strategic pleating at the bodice that released into voluminous silhouettes through carefully placed stitch lines.

The construction techniques revealed Mishra’s couture background adapted for ready-to-wear. “The garment almost sits on the body,” Mishra described of one bustier-and-balloon look. “There’s no curve in the waist because the internal structure has to be created with all the simplicity on top.”

Dragonfly motifs, rendered in checks, provided metaphorical weight, representing how familiar textiles could “take new flight in a very gentle way,” Mishra said. Evening pieces incorporated sequins and metallic surfaces, translating the checks from cotton to reflective materials that caught light like the designer’s couture work.

The Dubai presentation served multiple purposes beyond showcasing the collection. Mishra has been seeking a retail location in the emirate for three to four years, viewing it as a “global window” for the brand. “Dubai is one of the most important cities in the world today,” Mishra said, acknowledging the strategic importance of the Middle East market for luxury brands.

The intimate format also allowed for direct client interaction, with a two-day pop-up event following the presentation featuring both ready-to-wear and Paris couture pieces. The decision to move away from Paris Fashion Week scheduling was both strategic and personal. After a successful trunk show in New York last year, the designer said he really benefited from direct interaction with customers, a throwback to what shows used to be like. And on a personal level, he shared he wanted to be present for his daughter’s 10th birthday on Tuesday, another impetus for him not to follow the conventional calendar.