There’s something about the ’90s It-girl energy that refuses to fade—from lacey slips to pencil skirts and smudgy, smoky eyeliner, the codes of that decade still define what’s cool. And at the heart of that look? Chocolate brown lipstick. The shade became a supermodel signature, coloring the lips of Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Yasmeen Ghauri, Linda Evangelista, and Claudia Schiffer.

Fast forward to today, Hailey Bieber, Emily Ratajkowski, and Dakota Johnson are bringing the sultry, sophisticated hue back into rotation. Warm, sensual, and surprisingly versatile, brown lipstick has proven it’s no fleeting trend—it’s a modern classic. Whether you take it matte and bold or glossy and understated, the right shade has a way of flattering every skin tone and elevating any look.

Linda Evangelista

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Naomi Campbell (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)Ron Galella, Ltd./Getty Images

Compared to its 1990s ancestors, the new generation brown lipsticks have a new vitality. It’s not just about improved formulas designed to moisturize the lips, but also a new understanding of color. Alongside trends that make dark lipstick the star of the look, as is the case with the burgundy lipstick typical of Cherry Cola lips, brown reveals its more nude side through delicate shades such as cafe latte or beige. Precisely for this reason, what is particularly important is the undertone of the brown lipstick, which can be pinkish or orange to create a continuum with the complexion, avoiding creating disharmonious contrasts. Inevitable, then, is the choice between light and dark, which is essential to connote the personality of the lipstick.

Who does brown lipstick look good on?

As fashionable and tempting as it is, brown lipstick should be chosen with care. Observing one’s complexion is crucial: if one’s skin is olive, in fact, one will be able to take advantage of a cool, dark brown lipstick, a bold but beautiful choice even for moon complexions, which could benefit from the contrast. A golden brown, slightly burnt or terracotta lipstick is excellent, however, to highlight golden complexions.

Finish matters, too. For those with thinner lips, glossy or satin textures add depth for a fuller effect, while a matte formula gives naturally plump lips a velvety backdrop that makes the rich pigment pop. And then there’s brown lip gloss—a category of its own. Layer it over a nude or lighter brown shade for shine, and a just-bitten freshness.

How to apply brown lipstick

It is known, the darker the lipstick, the more time and attention it will take to apply it well. First and foremost, it is good to deeply moisturize the lips so that the lipstick can last long and without smudging or, highlighting dehydration and fine lines. Then, you simply apply the lipstick, carefully following the contour of the lips. An extra help is lip pencil, which can be useful to outline the contour of the mouth and avoid smudging. Laying it under lipstick will also provide a long-lasting effect. How to match brown lipstick? Opt for similar color palettes, like hazel, mauve, and bronze tones across the lids and cheeks. Unless you want to create a bold 90s look: in that case, frosty eyeshadow is très chic.