Elisabetta Franchi’s spring show was held once again at Palazzo Acerbi, the opulent 17th-century building in the Baroque style in central Milan. The designer revealed backstage that she had just completed the acquisition of the palazzo and explained how she was first intrigued by the legend surrounding it. “The devil protected this building. I am not afraid of this and the Elisabetta Franchi customer is a strong and confident woman who would actually confront the devil and boss it around,” she said.

Indeed, her models power-walked through the frescoed and gilded rooms with conviction, wearing beautifully cut floor-length trenches, functional but also feminine and sexy. Sartorial blazers emphasized the strong shoulders worn over capri pants or long, low-waist skirts.

There were many asymmetrically cut gowns and second-skin draped jersey dresses with tulle inserts adding transparencies and embroideries with a mesh effect that contributed to lightness and movement. Franchi said she doesn’t believe in distinguishing between day and eveningwear, arguing any of her clothes could be worn at all times. Perhaps — but that would take one assertive customer.

There were plenty of fringes flowing or woven in leather and light organza, telegraphing the quality of the craftsmanship but also adding more lightness to the garments.

Blousons and cabans in printed satin had a relief effect reminiscent of ostrich leather as Franchi has long been a dedicated animal-rights activist.

Boudoir pink and cocoa were the main colors next to black and butter, mainly in matte versions and large gold and metal bracelets complemented the monochrome looks.