Congratulations are in order for Cate Holstein, whose second baby, a girl, arrived the day before she was scheduled to present this resort collection. Chalk it up to the optimism and happiness a new birth brings, or simply to ongoing success—Holstein is on the verge of opening another new store, this one on Melrose Place in Los Angeles—but this was her most playful Khaite collection yet, styled with irreverence and exuding a freer spirit. The “stealth woman” that she designs has a sunnier new disposition.

The shift in attitude came across clearest in the way zebra-stripe pony skin mingled with sheer florals, and in the electric turquoise hue of ostrich cowboy boots and strappy evening sandals. The roomy cut of shirt-dresses in both solids and floral prints also conveyed a more laid-back sensibility. But if the vibes are different, these clothes are as deluxe as ever—the plongé leather of coats begging to be caressed and the equally pet-able pony skin of pants. The printed rabbit jackets she added to the mix are a sign of customers’ changing attitudes about real fur, which had previously gone out of fashion.

The all-important coat or jacket, the one piece that women are willing to spend money on because it does so much of a wardbrobe’s hard work, both elementally and aesthetically, was an obvious focal point here. Holstein experimented with novel shapes, cutting jackets longer in front and at the natural waist in back, or adding side plackets to create sharp, dramatic silhouettes. In addition to plongé leather, she also used distressed leather, as on a bomber that reverses to shearling. Her tailoring is buttoned-up, quite literally in the case of double-breasted blazers and a single breasted leather jacket with chrome buttons from neck to hem.

On the accessories front, there’s a purple pony skin tote as vibrant as those turquoise boots. A PR rep pointed out that it would be great for weekend getaways, but you know what else it could look like? A rather eye-catching diaper bag.