“Obviously I’m interested in the combination of masculine and feminine, twisting things and taking classics but making them different,” Tory Burch said during a walkthrough of her resort collection. 

The designer said she started with looking at old Japanese men’s workwear, evidenced through shrunken field jackets with oversize utility pockets and matching paneled trousers, which looked especially great in cobalt blue denim with a contrasting emerald-colored collar. 

From there she continued to expand her vocabulary of twisting American sportswear with nice doses of prep and utility. Taking sportswear archetypes and amping up their personality with a little funk, and a lot of fun, isn’t an entirely new concept for the American designer but each season she’s able to offer new takes with quirky, covetable details. Here, repetition is key to success.

The silhouettes she’s twisted up this season? The polo shirt, cardigan, five-pocket jean, trenchcoat and skirt suit. Here, the looks exuded ‘90s cool with a modern sensibility in her vibrant palette and mix of casual meets opulent fabrications.

“I wanted color to be a very different thing. The weird mixes of color and how they play off of each other,” she said of the bold shades of blue, green, purple and red against classic neutrals. Her now-signature experimental jersey dresses this season came in the fresh hues and were warped and knotted around the body with little sheer chiffon hems. The latter fabrication was also cut into drapey blouses, as seen layered under a padded cardigan featuring little beaded knot buttons and a twisted T logo, or as a pretty godet midi skirt with sunset-hued sequined hems, paired with a chic elongated blazer.

Burch said she was attracted to the simplicity of the pencil skirt this season, offering up a strong variety in colorful leather or in a jade-hued floral jacquard and fluid viscose plaid “flannel” (both of the latter with matching draped blouses).

Elsewhere collars were a key focus and designed to be distinctly popped, as seen through slashed versions on sporting sweaters and button-down shirts; twisted micro-sequin embellished ones on a white polo, or via jacket collars with contrasting leather inserts. 

It was details like these that brought a distinct flavor to the lineup, and expanded into the season’s handbags (glossy patent Balloon and Kira bags); jewelry (from XXL resin earrings with floating crystals to enamel chicken pins and clown-shaped baubles), and accessories (studded belts and hand-beaded pouches, slung around waists as pockets). Rounding it out, Burch continued twisting up her footwear game, with pointy cutout monk strap flats and heels; colorful lace-up wedges, and the new pumped-up Reva.