As a designer, it can be challenging to keep up with the relentless need for newness every season—so rather than reinventing the wheel for pre-fall, designer Jasmin Larian Hekmat looked to the things she does best—easy-breezy vacation staples that can also be worn year-round—to help drive her collection forward. “This season, we really doubled down on our brand DNA and what makes Cult Gaia what it is,” she said. “But we also introduced some new things.”

This time around, her getaway-ready mini dresses were hand-crocheted in white, and done in butter-yellow plissés with knotted detailing. Her more formal creations, like a black Grecian gown with cutouts and brass detailing, retained the fun factor that Cult Gaia shoppers recognize. As usual, accessories were also a focal point—especially the bamboo-style brass detailing she added onto bags, cuffs, and heels, in a glamorous take on her love of nature-inspired elements. “I wanted to create pieces that ignite conversation and joy,” Hekmat noted.

Other offerings felt surprisingly sober for the brand, which typically exudes a more joyful spirit. Her take on a simple white tee at least had an interesting high-neckline—but one wonders if we need a Cult Gaia T-shirt in a saturated contemporary market. For Hekmat, that move towards simplicity was intentional. “I want [our customer] to start coming to Cult Gaia not just for occasions, but for investing in pieces for everyday,” she said. A foray into leather—like the boxy moto jacket or paneled mini skirt—was also a part of that mandate. A brand like Cult Gaia does not need to be solely devoted to upbeat summer garments—but stark minimalism, as chic as it was, felt antithetical to the whole spirit.