These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Friday.

Jane Birkin’s original Birkin bag goes to auction

The original Birkin bag — the prototype made for actress Jane Birkin — is going up for auction as part of the Sotheby’s Paris Fashion Icons sale on July 10. There is no public estimate for how high the bidding will go. The original bag was made in 1984 for Birkin after she boarded an Air France flight with her overstuffed bag and sat next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then the chief executive of Hermès. They sketched the idea for a bag to fit all her necessities on an airsickness bag. This original bag is different from the commercially available Birkins: Its size is unique; its strap is not removable; the hardware is made of brass; the inner zipper is from a different manufacturer; and the studs on the bottom are a different shape. {The New York Times/paywalled}

Rent the Runway projects double-digit subscriber growth in 2025

Rent the Runway released its first quarter 2025 results on Thursday, which showed a 1% increase in active subscribers to 147,157 (up from 145,837 at the end of the first quarter of fiscal year 2024). In the report, Chief Financial Officer Sid Thacker noted that the company continues “to expect double digit growth in ending active subscribers for fiscal year 2025.” Rent the Runway’s revenue was $69.6 million, a 7.2% decrease year-over-year from $75 million in the first quarter of fiscal year 2024. {Rent the Runway}

How small jewelry brands are seizing the moment

Independent jewelry brands have often struggled to compete with luxury giants like Cartier and Tiffany. Though the uncertain luxury market paired with sweeping tariffs has disrupted business across the board, some emerging brands with smaller supply chains have found it easier to adapt their approaches. Jewelry is proving to be a resilient category, but small brands need to find their niche and tap into the growing consumer appetite for unique, personal statements. {Business of Fashion/paywalled}

How Studs is streamlining its brand look as it scales

As Studs expands across the U.S., it’s looking to mature its brand and drop parts of its neon aesthetic. Its newest locations — including one in Florida’s Hyde Park Village — feature more monochrome design choices, curvier counters and fewer bright green accents. The brand discovered that its customer base is skewing “a bit older” and “looking for a clean, sterile and safe experience when they come in to get a piercing,” Tom Walsh, SVP of retail store development at Studs, told Modern Retail. {Modern Retail}

Charlotte Tilbury named first beauty partner of Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders

Charlotte Tilbury is the first official beauty partner of the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, marking the beauty brand’s first-ever sports partnership in the U.S. Charlotte Tilbury will bring the partnership to life with dedicated social media content, collaborations with squad members, pop-up events and appearances as well as brand takeovers. Charlotte Tilbury touch-up stations will be available at AT&T Stadium during select Cowboys home games, offering fans an elevated beauty experience on game day. {Fashionista inbox}

Discounts motivate TikTok Shop users

On TikTok Shop, users aged 35 to 54 are the most active, according to a survey of more than 1,000 U.S. adults by YouGov released last month. Over half of TikTok shoppers are primarily motivated by discounts, and nearly one-third of TikTok users have made a purchase on TikTok Shop in the past year. The top categories for TikTok Shop buyers is apparel, followed by electronics, home goods and food. {Retail Dive}

Italy’s biggest fashion families are unfazed by tariffs

Italian family-run fashion brands like Zegna, Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli are clinging to homegrown independence in an industry and an uncertain economic environment that values scale. While the larger fashion industry is currently facing regular shake-ups of designers and executives, keeping things in-house allows for continuity. Tapping a similar growth strategy to fashion conglomerates may help grow the business’s margins, but Italy’s biggest fashion families are staying put regardless of tariffs. {The Wall Street Journal/paywalled}

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