I’m somewhere atop Europe’s only active volcano. Her name is Mount Etna, and she’s a beauty: immense and fiery. In this part of eastern Sicily, the mountain is ubiquitous: not only can you see her for miles, there are rice balls, or arancini, in the shape of her. She’s inspired more art than a pop star’s torrid romance. There’s even a deep red liquor, the locally made Fuoco del Vulcano, in honor of her strength. (Proceed with caution: it’s 70 proof, and I looked like Willie E. Coyote swallowing dynamite when I took a sip.) More often than not throughout 2025, Mount Etna has been doing what she does best: blowing off steam and lava. And who hasn’t done that from time to time? I have a few dirty martinis, Mount Etna erupts now and then. Same difference.

I’m here in Sicily for the first time exploring the off-the-beaten path destinations on the trendy island. I’m a quarter Sicilian, so this actually is my Roman Empire. (The Greeks and Arabs ran this land throughout the years, too). I don’t need to tell you about that certain HBO-turned-Max-turned-HBO Max series that has inspired a million excursions in the recent era. But on the eastern edge of the island, beyond the Gucci and gelato shop-lined streets of Taormina (where I’ll eventually wind up), there’s a bit more to the area than the bustling tourist meccas that have turned some Italian towns like this into places out of Epcot Center.

On the contrary, while Mount Etna does indeed woo tourists (sometimes clueless ones, to the chagrin of local authorities), it’s much less polished than other la dolce vita destinations. My ride up here was an offered excursion courtesy Donna Carmela, the laidback 18-suite boutique hotel I’m staying at tonight which is located roughly an hour from the heart of the volcano and somewhere halfway between the charmingly unpolished city of Catania and the aforementioned Taormina. It’s family-run by the Faros, right down to the pictures of nonnas, uncles and kids on the wall in its spacious communal living room area. The Faro clan also runs a local floral park and winery, which is also on my schedule to visit. I refresh in my bungalow, which boasts a private patio and wading pool, pull my trusty sneakers out of my luggage and head out.