ROME — Those longing for a summer getaway on the Italian Riviera are dreaming small. What’s a dive into Mediterranean waters when you can get lost in the green-blue shade of a 46-carat Paraiba tourmaline? 

The gemstone sat at the pendant tip of one of the creations Damiani presented at Palazzo Ripetta here on Thursday as part of its high jewelry collection. A range of 76 one-of-the-kind pieces, the line was conceived as a tribute to Italy and its natural and architectural beauties, while offering a display of the company’s craftsmanship, design ethos and research into precious gemstones. 

“This is an ode to Italy because we are proud to be Italians and convinced that it’s the most beautiful country in the world, one that never ceases to inspire us,” said Guido Grassi Damiani, president of the Damiani Group, which also comprises the Salvini and Bliss jewelry brands, as well as Calderoni, retailer Rocca and glassmaker Venini.

Grassi Damiani underscored that the brand’s celebrations for its centennial last year and the roving “Damiani 100 x 100 Italiani” exhibition of unique creations staged for the occasion built additional momentum around its high jewelry collection, drawing the interest of new customers, too. 

“Last year we celebrated our history, now it was time to celebrate the country we love. And it felt right to do it here in Rome,” said Grassi Damiani. 

References to the city were seen throughout the collection, which was divided into three chapters, each spearheaded by hero creations spotlighting standout gems.

For example, Paraiba tourmalines in various carats defined the “Lights of the Sea” line dedicated to the Italian coast and its most famed destinations. Cue the stunning Marea Rosa, or Pink Tide, necklace evoking the colors of Sardinia and the glare of the sun on the sea with its array of marquise-cut pink morganites and diamonds, culminating in the central oval-cut Paraiba tourmaline pendant.

Smaller cuts of the same gem punctuated the Gioia del Mare, or Joy of the Sea, necklace in white gold and diamonds that was inspired by Portofino, while the statement Agrumia rings paid tribute to Taormina, framing oval- or cushion-cut Paraiba tourmalines with yellow diamonds or in pink and orange sapphires.

A different vibe was channeled into the Landscapes of the Soul chapter, inspired by other natural settings, such as blooming hills, alpine peaks, placid lakes and volcanoes. Highlights included the Dolce Stil Novo necklace and matching watch inspired by the Tuscan countryside and alternating flower- and daisy-shaped elements in yellow and brown diamonds to support an emerald-cut, 31-carat emerald pendant. 

The Promessa di Luna, or Promise of the Moon, bracelet featuring blue sapphires with portrait- and rose-cut diamonds was a nod to the peaks of the Dolomites, while the Specchio della Notte, or Mirror of the Night, necklace and earrings evoking twilight on the Italian lakes charmed with their combination of oval-cut pink corals, cats-eye alexandrites and diamonds.

The Aethernitas necklace and its cut-cornered rectangular fancy yellow-green diamond was among the standout creations of the “Dwellings of Time” theme inspired by Italy’s artistic cities. The piece, which nodded to Rome’s piazzas through its circular pendant, could be turned into a brooch, tapping also into the male audience that is increasingly relying on high jewelry to elevate their tuxedos on special occasions.

The piece was flanked by the flamboyant Milano Segreta and Magnifica necklaces, nodding to Milan and Florence, respectively, as well as the Bagliori di Murano earrings, evoking the colors of the island in Venice’s lagoon and its signature glass-making expertise with multicolored sapphires and diamonds.

“High jewelry is a fun challenge for us. It’s the space where we can freely express our creativity compared to our other lines, where we’re dealing with smaller sizes and have to be more mindful about costs,” said Grassi Damiani. 

He said the overall weight of the category on the Damiani business is growing, now representing a double-digit share of the brand’s revenues, but he declined to provide exact figures. He also believes the share of sales generated by high jewelry “will further increase in the coming years, in part because we’re growing at-large, in part because high-end customers are rediscovering jewelry, to the detriment to other luxury industries.”

“Customers want to give importance to the money they spend and jewelry not only lasts for a lifetime, but it is passed down to the next generations. It has an intrinsic value and is seen as an investment, especially in moments of wars and crisis as the ones we’re going through,” said Grassi Damiani. 

So much so that Grassi Damiani revealed the brand is looking to expand more and more into watches, too. While some pieces are already part of its high jewelry collection, a more approachable watch offering is in the works and might bow in a few years, said Grassi Damiani. 

Customers’ overall demand is sustaining the group’s growth. To be sure, in the fiscal year ending March 31, the Damiani Group posted revenues of 380 million euros, reporting more than a 10 percent increase over the previous year. Grassi Damiani is confident that despite the geopolitical instability and macroeconomic volatility, the family business will report a sales increase in 2025. 

The forecast is also due to the investments the company is making in its distribution, in activations enhancing its brand awareness globally and in strategic acquisitions aimed at strengthening its production capabilities.

The Damiani brand continues to push its retail expansion, with recent openings in Hong Kong and Seoul, followed by its debut in Saudi Arabia with a 1,614-square-foot boutique in Riyadh’s Solitaire Mall. The units, which mirror the new concept the brand introduced earlier this year with its flagship in Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, will be followed by outposts in Doha after the summer and in Abu Dhabi come new year.

The openings are part of an expansion the brand is making in the Middle East, which is seen as a key market for the future. While the current best-performing markets are Italy, South Korea and Japan, Grassi Damiani said there are encouraging signs coming from Central and South America, with high-spending customers approaching the brand in Mexico, Argentina and Venezuela.

He credited the product but also the increased budget dedicated to boosting communication activities, as seen in the campaign fronted by global brand ambassador Jessica Chastain launched last year. Grassi Damiani underscored it’s “a difficult battle” to fight against competitors that are part of bigger groups, but believes that being Italian and still a family-run company are aspects that set the brand apart and which will be spotlighted further going forward.

The firm also continued to invest in Italy in its M&A deals. Earlier this month, the group revealed it reached an agreement to acquire the Valenza-based, family-run jewelry manufacturer Carraro S.r.l. to further strengthen its know-how and production capabilities. Following the acquisition, the 55-year-old Carraro will continue to operate under its own name and management, ensuring the continuity of its processes. Grassi Damiani didn’t exclude other acquisitions by the end of the year, but didn’t disclose details.

The firm was founded in Valenza, Italy, in 1924 by the executive’s grandfather, Enrico Grassi Damiani, who set the design and manufacturing bedrock of the company, managing to build a sizable business by word of mouth. The jeweler eventually turned into a full-fledged label in the 1970s thanks to Damiano Damiani, the founder’s son, who propelled its branding and started to invest in communication.

The family’s third generation is represented by Grassi Damiani and his siblings Silvia, vice president of Damiani Group and president of Venini, and Giorgio, vice president of Damiani Group and creative and research and development director for all jewelry brands within the group. They found themselves suddenly helming the family business following the tragic death of their father Damiano in a car accident in 1996.

A lot has taken place since, including winning 18 Diamonds International Awards for its jewels and publicly listing in Milan, only to delist 12 years later, citing misalignment between the management’s strategic plans and shareholders’ expectations.

The Damiani Group established the Salvini brand in 1986; introduced the Bliss label in 2000; acquired jeweler Calderoni in 2006; bought retailer Rocca in 2008, and first invested in leading glassmaker Venini in 2016.