The Brunello Cucinelli showroom in Milan was swarmed by press and retailers on a sweltering June afternoon, touching and feeling the brand’s innovative fabrics for next spring. But it was also buzzing with curiosity over the documentary film “Brunello,” which will premiere on Dec. 4. 

Cucinelli was mum on details but said it will be shown in Cinecittà “to pay tribute and offer a gift to the most important location for movies in the world.”  It was directed by Academy Award winner Giuseppe Tornatore, with music by Academy Award winner Nicola Piovani.

In the meantime, Cucinelli was eager to show his namesake brand’s new collection, which, aligned with his mantra of tweaking small details each season, featured slightly longer jackets and wider lapels over pants that had more volume and a softer shape. This was also conveyed by pleats. The silhouette harked back to the early ‘90s and there were plenty of double-breasted jackets reminiscent of that era – minus the weight, as they were entirely deconstructed.

Indeed, dubbed “The Shape of Light,” the collection was marked by blends of wool or cashmere with silk and linen on fluid pantsuits blurring the boundaries between formal and informal.

While still offering the brand’s staple neutral shades, the color palette was enriched by new hues ranging from orange and apricot to royal blue and coral or cherry red.

Novelties included a sportier – yet still chic – fireman’s jacket paired, for example, with corduroy shorts; a sartorial leather jacket; several zippered bomber jackets, and suits with checkered, herringbone and pinstriped patterns.

Company sales have more than doubled since 2019 to 1.28 billion euros last year, and, given its and constant growth, they are expected to double by 2030 compared to 2023. Cucinelli stands by achieving this while maintaining the exclusive positioning of the brand, its nature as a ready-to-wear label, a category that represents around 85 percent of total sales and upholding the Italian identity, craftsmanship and production pipeline. This solid and comprehensive collection perfectly adhered to this strategy.