MILAN — Offsetting the tariff effect, rising raw materials prices and currency fluctuations like the weak yen are issues both buyers and exhibitors at White Resort are grappling with.

“Traditional markets are so saturated and so we are looking to open up new markets like the Middle East, India and South America — places that are more effervescent — for these brands,” White show founder Massimiliano Bizzi told WWD, recognizing that U.S. President Donald Trump’s tariff policy continues to be a top concern for many brands.

EU countries are still subject to reciprocal tariffs of 10 percent on all exports to the U.S. and 25 percent on steel, aluminium and derivatives, cars, and components exports.

White Resort, now in its third edition, ran in tandem with Milan Men’s Fashion week. The three-day fair dedicated to resort ready-to-wear and accessories closed on Monday. It was envisaged as a bridge between Italian and international small and medium-sized fashion enterprises and buyers from buoyant markets in the Middle East and Asia.

Strategically, organizers also positioned White Resort to meet the needs of several international retailers concentrating their buying activities during the men’s fashion show. The third edition was attended by luxury boutiques, high-end department stores, concept stores and luxury hotel operators like Belmond and Rocco Forte Hotels.

“Tariffs is something we need to figure out,” said Nilufer Bracco, founder and creative director at Niluu, a luxury resortwear brand designed and based in Miami and made in Turkey. About 60 percent of Niluu’s sales are generated in the U.S. and about 40 percent are generated in the Middle East. For resort 2026, they showcased their latest vegan silk collection, Calypso, a love letter to fluidity that was inspired by the sultry mythical sea nymph and the hedonistic glamour of 1970s Saint-Tropez. Caftans and ensembles were made with Cupro, which is produced by Japanese textile firm Asahi Kasei. Cupro, which is also sold under the brand name Bemberg, is soft and buttery to the touch and made with a naturally sourced regenerated cellulose fiber.

Bracco, whose aim is to break into the European market, said White Resort had an elevated corps of buyers.

Daisuke Yamamoto, owner of Tokyo’s Editorial, said Japanese retailers are dealing with their own set of problems in light of the weak yen against the euro and U.S. dollar. To mitigate the foreign exchange effect, Yamamoto said he was on the lookout for brands that are “not super luxury and not cheap” and that White Resort aided his quest for unique, under-the-radar brands.

In the near term, currency woes are expected to mount due to rising crude oil prices, according to analysts at Citi, who forecast for the yen to weaken to 150 per U.S. dollar by September.

Giuseppe Angiolini, founder and owner of Sugar, a well-known luxury concept store in Arezzo, Tuscany, said he’s shifted his buying strategy due to an unpredictable macro environment. He’s also adjusting to consumers’ penchant for lesser-known brands. “It’s not an easy moment amid a complicated environment. Prices are way too high across the board. We used to sell mostly big brands but now we are looking for the right mix of brands, unique ones with a distinct DNA and for the right price,” he said.

Serena Rovai — a former diplomat who founded Ophicina and works with local families and communities of women in places like India and Tibet — said her firm works in such small quantities that she sees the tariff impact as limited. “We need to work on growing in key markets like the U.S. and Japan,” she told WWD. Her 2026 resort collection showcased chic folk blouses and dresses in natural cotton, silk and cashmere, many of which were enhanced with stitching and patterns from India and ruffles made in Tuscany.

Saudi Brands Expand

Tala Abukhaled, founder of Riyadh-based Rebirth, a prêt-à-porter brand that blends luxury with a bohemian aesthetic, said tariffs to the U.S., where she sells through New York City retail hub Doors, could rise as high as 32 percent. Tariffs to the EU are expected to hover around 12 percent. Abukhaled noted that she’s currently making her collections via her own atelier. Resort collections like hers are growing due to help from the Saudi Arabia Fashion Commission and initiatives like Red Sea Fashion Week.

Convertible and One Size Fits All

In terms of trends, convertible items and one-size-fits-all pieces were paramount at the fair.

Sorbet Island’s founder Sophia Mamas showcased her latest swimwear made with a special crinkle fabric. Crinkle accommodates all body type in a flattering, fashionable and inclusive way and can fit a range of women from 40 kilos (88 pounds) up to 140 kilos (309 pounds).

Through her stand at White Resort, she made on-the-spot deals with a Dubai retailer, which marks her first sale to the Emirates market. “I’ve been to about 300 fairs in my lifetime and this one is super international.”

In the same spirit, Italy-based Genny Spadea showcased a collaboration with Canadian abstract artist Callen Schaub, who is known for his dynamic and engaging painting performances. There were double robes with whimsical patterns and bathing suits that can be used as leotards for evening. He uses self-built devices such as trapezes, pendulums and rotating machines to apply paint to canvases, creating works characterized by vivid colors and fluid forms.

In line with its mission to foster new collaborations, White organizers also forged and showcased its collaboration with Gran Canaria Swim Week, the only European fashion week entirely dedicated to beachwear. Minerva Alonso, an adviser for the Economic Development of the Government of the Island of Gran Canaria, said that White will help bring the event to the world stage. “The presentation of the Swimwear Fashion Week during the White event represented not only a further opportunity to make our catwalk known in the European capital of fashion, but also an important step to consolidate our collaboration with White Milano.”

Looking ahead, White Milano and fairgrounds operator Fiera Milano are gearing up for an all-new trade show format merging music and fashion aimed at younger consumers. Called “Purple Sign of the Times,” the inaugural edition of the event is to be held in September.