Laura Lusuardi’s message for the Max Mara Atelier 2025 collection was crystal clear.

During a preview, on the fashion director’s mood board stood images of Jacqueline Kennedy, her eccentric cousin Little Edie, and Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, as well as Diana Vreeland and Maria Callas — “all resolute, almost rebellious women who left a mark on style,” said Lusuardi, and many of them were regulars on the Amalfi Coast. To wit, the collection was presented at the Circolo Rari Nantes, a storied Italian sports club in Naples, around 40 miles away from the dramatic cliffs and picturesque towns overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, and it was dubbed “Portraits de Femmes (Radicales),” or “Portraits of (Radical) Women” in English.

Whiffs of the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘90s minimalism ran throughout the beautiful collection.

Since its inception in 2009, Max Mara Atelier has focused on its hero product, the coat, and on extensive fabric research, from blends of cashmere and alpaca or mohair chiné to Scottish jacquards and compact or felted wools. “The fabric is important to determine the silhouette,” said Lusuardi.

Shapes were tailored and volumes ample, as in a masculine coat to be worn over a suit, but “it’s not rigid, it’s fluid,” underscored Lusuardi.

The shape of a wool coat overlaid with a devoré silk georgette in an animalier pattern was minimal to balance the motif, she said. As the winters become less frigid, “we worked on lighter weights for the coats,” she added.

A caban peacoat in double wool cashmere or a more feminine redingote was displayed next to a coat inspired by a denim jacket in loden green.

There was a focus on buttons, in lacquered woven leather, horn or Swarovski crystals.  The color palette ranged from cascia and vicuña to oranges, amaranth red and brown, as well as black. The brand’s signature red returned as a subtle motif on the garments.

“These coats are a personal luxury and when you wear them they must feel perfect on you,” said Lusuardi, ever attentive to each and every detail.