On the occasion of his 50th birthday, Francesco Scognamiglio decided to celebrate the return of his brand, Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, with a special event called The Renaissance on a panoramic terrace at Palazzo Reale, in Naples. After a long hiatus—and the recent reacquisition of his own label—he came back with 15 couture looks that quintessentially represented his aesthetic. This fall 2025 collection took inspiration from the mythological faun of Pompeii, linked to the historical Italian city—and Scognamiglio’s hometown—destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. This creature, a symbol of ephebic beauty, was one of the main references for the designer, who reflected on the concept of beauty itself to propose what he defined as a “new romanticism,” resulting in fluid, delicate silhouettes.

The first look was the main focus of the collection, as confirmed by the designer, a representation of this fragile beauty. A well-tailored suit—proof of his expertise in Neapolitan tailoring—was sleek with wide lapels, geometrically interrupted on the shoulders, and paired with a white smoking shirt and a bow tie. But Scognamiglio’s couture is about rich decorations: Vaporous feathers in pale pastels were theatrically applied on sheer gem-encrusted gowns, and also used to create boleros and sculptural headpieces. Some of the long dresses recalled the elegance of the 1930s with elongated silhouettes in semi-transparent organza and georgette, cascading volants, and matching vintage-inspired faux fur stoles.

Corsetry had a big role, with intricate embellishments that recalled ancient bas-reliefs on nude or black tones to create soft or hard contrasts. A similar decoration was used for a long-sleeved dazzling mini dress, again reminiscent of Roman architectural details. Among the proposals, one identified by Scognamiglio as “pretty special” to him was the white oversized faux fur coat on which an enormous silver rose was applied, as another touch of his baroque-like maximalism.