Techno-futurism in fashion. Laura Gerte is a master of this language, with her signature pieces like quilted cropped bomber jackets, distinctive ruched silk dresses, and reconstructed jersey pieces with long ribbons. Last season she even crafted her own cyborg manifesto.

That said, with her spring collection, Desire/Chaos, she left the unnatural behind and focused on something more immediate: the complexity of the feminine experience. “For me, this collection is an exploration of what it means to be a woman—something I, my friends, and many women live through every day. This constant awareness of possible threats unites us, but it also wears us down,” Gerte shared after her presentation. “I’m tired of being sad or angry. Still, I completely agree with the phrase, ‘sometimes creation is painful.’ Working on this collection has affected me deeply, and, of course on a larger scale, considering what’s happening in the world right now.”

Beyond her signature techniques, she succeeded in reflecting the feeling of the current moment through silhouettes: micro-shorts, capri pants, and hoodies casually draped over shoulders with laid-back lettering, but also through surprisingly elegant evening dresses, unlike anything Gerte has shown before. “I’ve delved much deeper into working with three-dimensionality in my garments. It’s become more feminine, more elegant, more powerful, representing a kind of sisterhood I want to express.”

On one hand, she presented designs made from stiff white canvas wrapped in tulle, creating near trompe-l’œil effects. On the other were versions featuring delicate mesh and flowing fabric appliqués that registered as much softer. With these dresses, Gerte asked: “What is the closest to wearing nothing while still looking fierce?” In the finale, she captured this essence again—with mesh evening gowns printed and overlaid with torn contrasting jersey appliqués that looked as if they were simply “thrown on spontaneously.”

Gerte interpreted these contrasts in a refreshingly uninhibited and deeply touching way. Her collection became a visual metaphor for armor and intimacy, for revealing and concealing, for openness and protection, softness and toughness—for delicacy as well as defiance. The applause was loud, sincere, and direct. This was a step forward not just for Gerte but for the prospect of collections that confront reality instead of romanticizing utopias.