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Celeb-loved beauty brand Hourglass has quietly cornered the market on tubing mascaras — the kind that deliver dramatic length without smudging, flaking, or requiring a multi-step removal process. Its Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara became a fast favorite among beauty insiders when it launched in classic black back in 2020. Now, it’s back in a brand-new shade that taps into summer’s most wearable beauty trend: brown lashes.

The Hourglass Unlocked mascara’s tubing formula is a reliable favorite for those who want amped-up lashes without the fuss — no smudging, no raccoon eyes, and no stinging sensation at the end of the day. While this top mascara isn’t known for major volume, the formula excels at creating fluttery, extended length — a feature that’s earned it fans like Hailey Bieber. Part of the appeal of tubing mascaras lies not only in how they wear, but also how easy they are to remove. Instead of melting down with oil or repeat rinses with makeup remover, it lifts off in clean, satisfying little tubes when you gently massage your eyes with warm water or a gentle face wash.

The new Espresso shade also comes at a moment when brown mascara itself is having a rebrand. Once positioned mainly as a soft, natural option for blondes and redheads, this subtler shade has reemerged as a makeup minimalist’s power move. Gen Z’s love for pared-back beauty — think: Addison Rae’s near-bare press tour — has reminded us that mascara doesn’t have to be showy to be effective. Still, for those not quite ready to skip eye makeup altogether, this update from Hourglass delivers a versatile in-between: subtle, styled, and — perhaps most importantly — smudge-free for the summer.

Ahead, my honest thoughts after wearing it every day for a week.

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Hourglass Tubing Mascara in Espresso Review — Editor Testing Notes

As someone with blonde eyelashes, I’ve tried more brown mascaras than I can count — most of which lean too warm or too red to flatter. Hourglass’ new Espresso shade, however, gets the tone just right. The new brown shade of the mascara lands somewhere closer to dark chocolate than creamy mocha (consider it more like 90 percent cacao). It delivers definition without feeling heavy, which is exactly the effect I’m after on no-makeup-makeup days.

On its own, Hourglass’ new brown mascara makes my lashes look like they’ve had a fresh lift and tint. I’ve worn it with nothing else on my eyes, and the result is polished but low-key — a makeup-free illusion that still photographs well. That said, it’s equally at home in a more put-together look. I’ve been reaching for it after dusting bronzer on my eyelids and smudging on a creamy brown liner. Together, the effect feels pulled together, but not overdone.

The formula itself hasn’t changed — it’s still one of the best mascaras I’ve tried in terms of wearability and comfort. It goes on subtle with a single coat but builds up beautifully if you give each layer a few seconds to set. The brush — a tapered silicone wand — makes it easy to get close to the lash line and catch even those baby lashes near the inner corners. I wear contact lenses and have very sensitive eyes, and I haven’t experienced any irritation or fallout, even after hours of wear. I’ve even rubbed my eyes (not recommended, but still) and the mascara didn’t smudge or flake.

Is it waterproof? Not entirely. It can handle a light sweat or humid subway ride with ease, but I wouldn’t wear it in the pool. Still, for everyday wear, especially in the summer, it’s exactly what I want: easy definition that doesn’t budge, and a soft, flattering color that plays well with everything else I’m wearing.

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Meet the Author

Claire Sullivan is a contributing commerce editor for WWD and Footwear News, where she writes and edits beauty, fashion, and lifestyle stories. She has over eight years of experience as a writer and editor for national media outlets including Martha Stewart Living, Martha Stewart Weddings, InStyle, and Byrdie. She’s tested hundreds of products during her time as an editor, so she’s well-versed in selecting the products that make a meaningful difference in your skin and hair. Sullivan tested the Hourglass Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara in Espresso for a week to write this review.