Standing Appointment is our review series that investigates the best new and notable cosmetic treatments in the aesthetics space and determines whether or not they are worth trying for yourself. This week, one writer tries a salmon sperm facial for glowy skin.

As a beauty writer, I’ve seen my fair share of questionable skin care ingredients hit my inbox — snail mucin, bee venom, even placenta. So when I first heard of salmon sperm being hailed as the latest bid for glowy skin, I chalked it up to being a bizarre trend destined to fade fast. Little did I know, it was here to stay. Salmon sperm DNA — technically known as polynucleotides or PDRN — has quickly carved out a loyal following in high-end facials and K-beauty routines thanks to its skin-repairing, hydrating, and collagen-boosting properties. From A-list celebrities to seasoned estheticians, people are genuinely obsessed with slathering on the ingredient in the name of healthy skin.

When I saw a salmon sperm facial on the menu at one of Los Angeles’ trendiest skin care spots, curiosity won. As someone with perpetually dry, dull skin, the promise of deep hydration and a radiant glow was too tempting to pass up. Formula Fig’s Longevity Treatment claims to deliver skin-repairing benefits thanks to its star (and yes, eyebrow-raising) ingredient: salmon DNA. Ahead, I’m sharing everything you need to know before trying it yourself — benefits, risks, price, aftercare, and my experience.

What Is A Salmon Sperm Facial?

The Longevity Treatment at Formula Fig is a 60-minute, medical-grade facial that pairs microneedling with a regenerative serum powered by salmon DNA. “The treatment uses purified salmon sperm DNA topically in combination with microneedling to allow the benefits of the salmon DNA to penetrate the skin’s surface and promote collagen and elastin stimulation,” says Dr. William Harris, a facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and Formula Fig’s Medical Director. The treatment is meant to deliver both an instant glow and long-term rejuvenation — no injectables required.

What Are The Benefits Of A Salmon Sperm Facial?

In Korea, salmon DNA injections are widely used to rejuevate the skin, effectively stimulating collagen, enhancing hydration, and encouraging tissue repair. The catch? These injections aren’t currently FDA-approved in the U.S., meaning if you’re looking to reap the benefits of the ingredient, a salmon sperm facial is your best bet. Thankfully, the treatment still comes with its fair share of benefits.

“Salmon sperm DNA has many growth factors that promote fibroblast and, in turn, collagen and elastin remodeling and stimulation,” says Harris. “There is also thought to be hydration and anti-inflammatory benefits associated with salmon DNA.” With this treatment, the salmon sperm DNA is delivered into the skin via microneedling, a technique that offers its own range of skin benefits. “Microneedling creates tiny entry points in the skin with an array of needles that cause microtrauma to the dermal layer and induce collagen and elastin stimulation, leading to tightening, fine line reduction, and an overall improvement to skin quality and appearance,” Harris tells TZR.

The treatment is designed to offer both short- and long-term effects. In the short-term, salmon sperm DNA helps stimulate collagen and support skin repair (especially helpful as collagen production naturally declines beginning in your late 20s to early 30s, leading to fine lines and dullness). As far as texture and tone, the treatment brightens the overall complexion, and the skin thickens where dermal thinning has occurred, says Harris. In the long-term, Harris says this is a great maintenance therapy for tightening and skin quality over the years. “If maintained consistently, it can stave off signs of aging and need for other treatments until later down the road,” he adds.

While results typically appear gradually over several weeks post-treatment, you’ll notice more hydrated, plump, and glowing skin a few days after. Full results, including enhanced collagen production and long-term skin strengthening, usually become most noticeable around the three to four-week mark. You can expect results to last about four to six weeks, or longer with regular upkeep. For long-term benefits, schedule maintenance treatments every three to four months, as the effects are cumulative and continue to improve the skin over time.

What Are The Potential Risks & Side Effects?

Other than mild redness immediately following the treatment, serious side effects are rare. Some people may experience temporary breakouts or purging as the skin adjusts. Harris also notes that post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is possible in some people, as is scarring and inflammatory reactions.

Who Should Get This Treatment?

Most skin types are candidates for this treatment, though Harris notes that people with a history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or a poor reaction to microneedling may want to proceed with caution. Also, anyone with a known allergy to fish products should avoid the treatment.

How Much Does A Salmon Sperm Facial Cost?

Prices vary depending on where you’re located and where you’re getting it done, but the treatment can range from $200 to $600. Formula Fig is currently offering it for $550 for drop-ins and $475 for members.

My Experience Getting A Salmon Sperm Facial

My treatment began with a quick consultation where my practitioner introduced me to the treatment and asked me about my skin care concerns. She then numbed my entire face and neck and used an alcohol pad to prep my skin (this helps prevent infection, she told me). Working in sections, she topically applied a few drops of the salmon sperm DNA serum onto my face, beginning at the forehead. Then, with mild pressure, she used the microneedling pen and alternated between swiping and circular motions to penetrate the skin. She made sure to go over the same area a few times, switching up the settings depending on the area (for instance, a shallower needle depth was used for thinner, more sensitive areas while sturdier areas like the cheeks and nose were better suited for handling deeper needles). All areas of the face and neck were hit with the microneedling pen (upper lip, nose, and under eyes included), however I had a few active breakouts on my face, so she made sure to avoid those areas to prevent spreading bacteria.

Pain-wise, the forehead was definitely the most uncomfortable area. Other bony areas (like the hairline, nose, and temples) felt a bit spicy, though nothing I felt like I had to stop mid-treatment for. The entire microneedling portion of the treatment took about 10 minutes.

After the treatment, my skin experienced the typical post-microneedling redness. Despite the fact that it looked angry, it didn’t feel angry — I didn’t experience any burning, tingling, or irritation. By day two after the treatment, the redness significantly decreased and I started seeing noticeable results — my pores looked smaller and my complexion appeared smoother, tighter, and more even.

The After Care

I was instructed to wait six to eight hours after my treatment before washing my face, 24 hours before SPF application, and 24 to 48 hours before working out and wearing makeup. I was also told to wait one week before re-using active skin care ingredients like retinol, exfoliating acids, and vitamin C. When my skin was ready for products, I used a gentle cleanser (the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Face Cleanser for Dry Skin) and moisturizer (the La Roche Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer). I also avoided sun exposure for a week, making sure I wore a hat when stepping outside.

My Takeaway

I’m thrilled with my salmon sperm facial results. While I still have fine lines underneath the eyes and deep-set wrinkles, I see a slight improvement on my smile lines and an undeniable glow on my whole face. My facial redness on the center part of my face and sides of the nose definitely diminished, revealing more even skin tone and texture overall. If you’re struggling with dehydration, redness, or a dull complexion, the salmon sperm facial is worth a try.