Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s fall collection is a reminder that how you wear your clothes is as important as what you put on. This season’s lookbook, photographed in a Parisian apartment, is a kind of masterclass in defying convention and exciting the eye. See how cinching a belt inches above the waistline creates an unexpected proportion? Or how tights paired with lucite wedges are so wrong they’re right?

Nassir Zadeh makes little distinction between men and women; both genders tuck their pants into their boots and both are photographed in a delicious bubblegum-pink leather blouson jacket. In one photo a male model ties a cummerbund-shaped bi-color belt over a pair of luxuriously pleated pants; it’s unexpected and effective in zhuzhing up a basic outfit.

In Nassir Zadeh’s world, spontaneity is encouraged and non-clothes become wearable—that suede fringe that’s worn as a skirt is just a narrow band that you can wind around a neck, a wrist, or on top of another garment.

One of the foundation pieces of this collection is a bustier top, à la ’70s Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. There’s one in orange embellished with shell discs that look like Necco wafers. By creating an off-the-shoulder neckline and accessorizing with animal-print boots, a tiered dress goes beyond boho.

“I think for fall there’s a vibrancy and an element of uplifting celebration and illuminating something,” said Nassir Zadeh, who explained that the season was in many ways an homage to her beloved grandmother. The designer was actually bringing together memories from her life with her nana, and revisiting her own repertoire. “The mix is so interesting and yet familiar,” she said. Also a bit off, to great effect.

There are a lot of patterned silks of the kind Princess Diana favored in the ’80s. These are used for ruffle hemmed skirts and a Juliet-sleeved top. The composition of some of the photos vaguely recall Sheila Metzner’s work from that era too—but the MNZ magic is to elude categorization, all the better to let the spirit run free.