Sea is riding a wave. Ahead of their 20th anniversary, in 2026, the brand is opening stores in Seoul and in Shanghai. “The consumer in China is changing, they are buying differently and they’re buying in our direction, which is helpful,” explained Sean Moynihan. “They want things that feel more crafted, more unique, more individual or independent.”

This spring collection certainly delivers on the made-with-love front; as Monica Paolini noted, “mending is a really big part of this collection.” Stitches, monograms, and motifs from vintage samplers have been adapted in a freeform way on tops and jeans. Sportiness, in the form of long shorts, is a carry over from resort. Providing a contrast to the width of the shorts are barely-there skorts and mini-skirts with attached bloomers. Another two-for-one look is a duster with a lining that can be worn on its own.

Openwork trims and folksy embroideries are Sea signatures; for spring the latter have been refined through the use of a new type of thread that allows for the most intricate work. Paolini indulged her passion for Chantilly lace as well. This season it reads alternatively sweet (see a lace-trimmed blazer) and sexy (transparency reveals undergarments in a grown-up way). 

The designer had a feeling for lingerie as outerwear as well. A mauve button-front dress with tucks and lace insets offered a less literal take on the boudoir look, which shared space in this offering with khaki separates, utility pockets, and rainwear capes boasting summer camp vibes. Paolini has been working on all of these themes for some time now. What felt most directional were the very subtle allusions to the ’80s, as seen on white work dresses that carried forward the spirit of Laura Ashley and on pleat-front balloon pants that gathered at the ankle.