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Allina Liu’s sexual awakening was the 2002 film “Secretary,” a Maggie Gyllenhaal-led exploration of erotic and psychological themes that follows a secretary entering a sadomasochistic relationship with her boss (sound familiar, Mr. Grey?). With this “erotic restraint” in mind, the designer’s New York Fashion Week runway debut positioned women at the forefront of her Spring 2026 “Memorandum” collection.
“Given the current social political climate, I really wanted to focus on women and empowering women,” Liu told Fashionista. “I know that sounds so cliché, but I did it in a little bit of an odd way.”
Liu crafted various harnesses meant to reference vulvas, which the designer noted were complicated to construct. “We had to sandwich pieces of paper between every single one, so it’s deceptively simple,” she said. While a live pianist filled the space with classical music, a procession of ruffles, scalloped collars and the label’s signature skinny bowties graced the runway set in the Freehand Hotel.
“I’m always trying to figure out new ways to build in restriction versus release,” Liu shared. “So these ties, every season it’s kind of a challenge to figure out a new way to approach it, a new way to make these ties still current and fun.”
As Liu began sartorially exploring orchid motifs present in “Secretary,” she started thinking about artist Georgia O’Keeffe’s provocative watercolors. The vibrant floral print sprinkled throughout the collection channels O’Keeffe’s modernist paintings, but Liu added a bondage-esque surprise: Nestled among the flowers lies a printed chain and padlock, striking a balance between hard and soft. The orchid motif also appears atop the models’ lips à la “The Silence of the Lambs,” and down to their toes with orchid-adorned footwear.
“Each piece has been created to live in the space between strength and vulnerability, offering a vision that is intimate, romantic and charged with tension,” the collection’s show notes read.
However, the CFDA | Genesis House AAPI Design + Innovation Grant finalist’s favorite piece of the collection didn’t make it out onto the runway. Lost backstage, it was a blazer constructed from TômTex’s biomaterial made out of mushroom enzymes and recycled seafood shells.
Keep scrolling to see every look from the Allina Liu Spring 2026 collection.
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
Allina Liu Spring 2026. Photo: Karla Tomanelli/Courtesy of Allina Liu
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