Tory Burch was thinking a lot about the idea of being a bit more undone this season. It stemmed from thinking about the complexity of women and their many different style facets, which she nailed through a more feminine lens of American sportswear that balanced ample precision with disruption.

“It’s a little more personal. It’s definitely more feminine, but mixing it with the sharpness of the tailoring,” Burch said. The collection was filled with things the designer loves, like silk sweaters inspired by samplers, here with touches of sentimentality: monogrammed embroideries of those on her design team. Classic crisp button downs and sharp piped blazer nodded directly to her father while wool and cashmere cardigans with hand-beaded flying bird embroideries stemmed from an antique chair tapestry of her mother’s. 

“There was something naive about [the embroideries] that I was really thinking about in the time we are in,” Burch said of the crafted styles that nicely contrasted her slouchy prep polos with chewed-up embroidered hems and eccentric tailored suiting — cool engineered crosshatch wool blazers and low-waisted trousers and pleated skirts galore.

The nostalgia of antiques also brought forth a vintage-meets-now feeling in her assortment of dresses that could easily bridge day to night, as seen through intricately hand seed beaded black dresses, pleated boatneck frocks in fil coupe duchess satin or silk organza with monogram and naive floral bouquet decoration and pretty 1950s-inspired kitten heeled pumps to match. 

Ditto in sheer hand-pleated silk chiffon and lace drop-waist numbers that recalled nighties — perhaps Burch’s woman wore them out of bed from the night before. It was the exact look she wanted to evoke with crushed matching skirt sets and a gold lame shirt worn with a prim, tailored baby blue Lurex jacquard skirt.

“The whole quiet luxury is [gone], so I’m excited about that because it gives us the opportunity to have fun and be in this concept of romance,” Burch said. Her unexpected pop colors of blue and yellow certainly packed a fresh punch on waxed canvas skirts and double layered jackets, while pink and red monochrome belted viscose jersey dresses were both pretty and practical.

While the cool kookiness that has run through her recent collections took on a more subtle tone for spring, Burch’s take on everyday sportswear remained vibrant, brimming with personality and craft.