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Women gravitating towards menswear-inspired fashion isn’t anything new — females began wearing suiting back in the ‘70s, when they were first cementing their place in the workforce. Now, this type of dressing is slowly becoming the norm. Blame it on the current climate and women reclaiming power (check out TZR’s deep dive on the topic here), but the Fall/Winter 2025 runways were rife with androgynous silhouettes, including one surprising look: Derby shoes. Though menswear staples like Oxford shirts and ties have enjoyed a moment these past few seasons, this flat hasn’t yet crept into the style scene — until now.
Not to be mistaken for oxfords or brogues, derby shoes boast a lace-up shoe with an open lacing system, according to Marine Braquet and Paule Tenaillon, the co-founders of Nomasei. “This design gives extra room across the instep, making it easier to put on and more comfortable and casual than closed-lacing styles like the oxford,” they tell TZR. Meanwhile stylist Becca Singer explains the allure: “They’re great because they are one of those rare additions to an outfit that works no matter your style or gender, which is why they’ve become a quiet hero of so many outfits this season.”
One indication the shoe is on the rise? Michael Rider’s debut collection for Celine. The flat was a key player on the luxury fashion house’s Spring/Summer 2026 runway, seen in the form of slim, glove-like leather silhouettes. Two months after presenting his line in Paris, fashion darlings are already trying on the shoe for size, one being Lola Tung. On Sept. 16, the day prior to the highly anticipated finale of The Summer I Turned Pretty, the show’s star was pictured in Nomasei’s black chunky derbies, which the brand launched three years ago. Tung gave the shoes a glamorous twist by way of a furry jacket and LBD.
Get ahead of the curve by shopping a roundup of derby shoes below.
If the Olsen twins are fond of an emerging trend, it’s safe to assume many a fashion enthusiast will follow their lead. If you’re down to splurge on the look, the brand’s sleek black derbies are the pair to buy.
Allow Nine West’s rich maroon derbies to usher you into fall. They’ll look just as good with a relaxed suit as they will with a fitted cardigan and wide-leg jeans.
Part derby, part loafer, these khaki-colored MIISTA shoes are bound to be the focal piece of every fall look.
Behold: The Nomasei derbies Tung rocked in Paris this week. Take styling notes from the fashion girl by pairing yours with a fluffy topper and leg-baring dress.
Though Celine’s aforementioned derbies aren’t dropping until spring, consider scooping up its sumptuous brown suede iteration here.
Made in Portugal, COS’ no-fuss derby shoes boast a rounded toe, stacked heel, and waxed-cotton laces. Dress them up or down, depending on the occasion.
These metallic silver Mansur Gavriel flats combine a glamorous, eye-catching look with an elevated feel.
Calling all petite folks: Coach’s platform derbies will give you height, without the pain of a skinny heel (a win-win).
When you’re not ready to trek around town in a durable stomper just yet, slip into these suede derby booties from Bottega Veneta. There’s sure to get plenty of mileage over the next few months.
Rendered in glossy patent leather, these Jonak Paris round-toe derbies are destined to be your new 9-to-5 go-to.
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