After a packed day of shows and presentations, editors were practically sleepwalking into Labrum’s spring 2026 show, which was scheduled for 9 p.m. and started closer to 10. But they were certainly wide awake for the show, which was accompanied by an electric live performance by the band Balimaya Project.

“I translated the idea of cultural osmosis into my collection by fusing traditional textiles and motifs from various cultures with modern silhouettes and techniques,” brand founder Foday Dumbuya explained. “This blend highlights the connections between cultures, celebrating diversity while creating a fresh, unified aesthetic.”

Building on the label’s legacy of blending West African heritage with British tailoring, suiting, eveningwear, and more casual pieces, such as bombers and jogging pants, came in everything from earthy browns and tans to exuberant reds, turquoise, and greens. 

Cowrie shells, a symbol of wealth and currency in various African regions, were dotted throughout the collection, as a print on tailored blazers, shirts, and shorts; as embellishments; and as intricate headpieces and jewelry fit for royalty.

There were also plenty of military references, from sculptural hats to sharply tailored jackets. 

The designer said those referenced military marching bands from West Africa and the Caribbean, but they also recalled the King’s Guard’s uniforms or British drumming boys. 

Accompanied by the thrum of bongos, bass, and ethereal vocals, the collection was a study on cultural appreciation.