At one point in time, perfume was considered a luxury. Now, it’s a cornerstone in the wellness movement, with people selecting scents based on how the aromas impact their mood. This shake-up has led to a new category of perfumes: Say hello to “functional fragrances.”

“These days, customers are seeking self-care and wellness benefits with anything that touches their skin — including fragrance,” says Aba Gyepi-Garbrah, a certified aromatherapist and founder of Aba Loves Apothecary. Suddenly, the term functional fragrance is everywhere, and perfume brands aren’t just outlining the notes; they’re describing how each element can influence mood and attitude.

Mood-altering scents aren’t a new concept. Certain aromas have been tied to particular emotions or states of being for centuries. Take lavender: You’ll often sniff the floral at spas due to its relaxing properties. Citrus is often associated with energy and alertness. And who could forget about ever-popular vanilla, which is said to stir up extra cozy vibes.

The difference between the ideas above and so-called functional fragrances? Science… in most cases. Things are still a bit foggy when it comes to the scents that can be considered functional, but experts in the space say research is paving the way for this new era.

What Is Functional Fragrance?

“Functional fragrances are scents that are designed not just to smell good but to influence your mood or well-being,” explains neuropsychologist Sanam Hafeez, Psy.D. “They often contain ingredients shown to reduce stress, improve mental clarity, or promote relaxation.” The idea of functional fragrance has become increasingly popular due to the shift in how people view perfume. Frank Voelkl, principal perfumer at DSM-Firmenich, mentions that in years past, people used to focus on smelling good for others. Functional fragrances flip the script and turn the attention inward. “It’s really about yourself and the emotional or physiological responses a scent can have on you while you wear it,” he says.

Individuals will turn to a perfume or body mist to uplift their mood, help them concentrate, or give them a sense of calm. It’s similar to aromatherapy, but while functional fragrance is often compared with aromatherapy, the two aren’t the same, says Gyepi-Garbrah. The driving difference between the two is their make up: Aromatherapy utilizes only essential oils for therapeutic benefits. “Because many functional fragrances contain synthetic molecules, they cannot be considered aromatherapy, even if they do offer the same benefits.” Hafeez adds that functional fragrances are designed to produce a specific psychological effect.

How Do Functional Fragrances Work?

If that last tidbit intrigues — and maybe even slightly terrifies you — take a deep breath. It checks out how formulators can concoct perfumes that create distinct cognitive effects when you consider just how deeply our sense of smell is linked to emotions and the brain.

“Unlike other senses, smell is directly connected to the limbic system, the part of the brain involved in emotion, memory, and behavior,” explains Hafeez. “That’s why a scent can trigger a vivid memory or emotional reaction almost instantly.” Due to this connection, studies have been conducted to see how certain aromas affect mood, and the findings are significant.

The Research Behind Functional Fragrance

“Researchers have found that specific aromas can reduce cortisol levels, influence heart rate, or even shift attention and alertness,” shares Hafeez. For example, one study published in Frontiers in Behavioral Neuroscience found that lavender can reduce anxiety and improve your mood. Another study in the Journal of Japanese Pharmacology shows that linalool, a compound found in flowers and spices, has calming effects by lowering stress-induced markers in the brain. “This connection makes smell a powerful tool in psychological responses, both positive and negative,” says Hafeez. This is part of the reason why functional fragrances have become so popular, and why so many perfume brands are trying to design their own, too.

DSM-Firmenich, one of the leading purveyors in fine fragrance, has spent years conducting its own studies into functional fragrance to determine what notes and molecules can have a notable effect on mood. Voelkl, who has played an instrumental role in the research, says neuroscience-based tools are used to measure how the brain reacts to particular scents.

“We’re measuring the brain waves of participants who are exposed to certain scents, so we can actually see which part of the brain gets activated,” Voelkl explains. However, the findings are proprietary and not publicly shared. Perfumers within DSM-Firmenich use the internal data when crafting perfumes. Voelkl called upon the insights when he was developing The Nue Co’s Functional Fragrance, a scent meant to de-stress with hints of palo santo, bergamot, and cilantro.

Functional Fragrance In Today’s Day & Age

Despite the studies, things are still a bit murky. There’s no regulated system or standard for measuring a fragrance’s functionality. Hafeez says electroencephalogram (EEG) scans, cortisol level testing, and heart-rate monitoring devices are typically used to measure how scents affect the brain. But without a standardized process, the findings can be vast and potentially contradictory. The experts I spoke with didn’t seem too concerned about which method is used to determine a scent’s effect on the brain; they simply shared that there needs to be quantifiable data. “Without measurable results, a fragrance might smell pleasant but wouldn’t qualify as functional,” says Hafeez. “Not all aromas are functional in a scientific sense.”

Aside from the lack of regulation, there’s another peculiar element. There’s nothing stopping brands from slapping the words “functional fragrance” across a bottle of perfume, even if there’s no measurable proof that it is. It’s not unlike phrases such as “clean,” “organic,” and “nontoxic” that have been plastered on makeup and skin care products — and it’s nearly impossible to confirm the merit of those claims.

It’s too early to tell if the fragrance industry will incorporate some sort of regulation around the term. Remember, the idea of functional fragrances has only become mainstream within the past five years. Hafeez does hope that the shift toward standardization happens sooner rather than later, though. “Clear standards help to protect consumers and encourage more transparency in the fragrance industry,” she says. “If a fragrance is truly functional, the brand should be required to prove it by research that shows how it affects the brain or body.”

A majority of the brands that claim their fragrances have some sort of function have made it a point to call out the research on product pages and packaging. The Nue Co is just one example. Vyrao and Charlotte Tilbury also share the neuroscientific research called upon when crafting their perfumes. Still, others vaguely label notes and scents as “joy in a bottle” or “a spritz of relaxation.”

All that said, if a fragrance makes you feel calmer or more energized — even without clear data — there’s no need to stop spritzing it. Everyone has a different relationship with certain aromas, and you should wear whatever personally amplifies your mood at any given moment. Just be sure to do your own digging if you’re looking for a functional fragrance to ensure that it is, well, functional.