Onlookers of Dario Vitale’s debut collection for Versace witnessed a true spectacle of color, glamour, and nostalgia — what some are calling a return to form for the iconic house. Yes, fresh off the heels of Donatella Versace’s exit earlier this year, Vitale kicked off his new chapter on Sept. 26 with a love letter to the late Gianni, celebrating all the elements the designer was known and loved for, drawing heavily from the 1980s aesthetic.

“Here, in the intimate chambers of the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana — home to an eclectic curation of godly masterpieces, and a former private residence — Versace’s deepest foundations materialised,” read the official show notes, referencing the 17th-century palazzo venue in central Milan. “Never knowable through mere study, the inherent essence of the archive is explored and embodied; felt. An expression of life lived freely, fully, without apology or restraint. Unbridled by inhibition, indulging tactile pleasures, dirty and divine.”

Unbridled, indeed. From the first looks launched down the runway, color-blocked day wear outfits consisting of candy-shaded knee pants, narrow-cut muscle tanks, and mismatched almond-toed pumps, it was clear that any semblance of restraint and subtly would be rejected here.

Raw sensuality, a signature design code for the 47-year old house, was embraced in a thoughtful, balanced way. Think plunging necklines on romantic silk midi dresses, bedazzled bralette tops paired with high-waisted pinstriped trousers, and the aforementioned muscle tanks that were severely cut on the sides for strategic, yet not immediately obvious exposure. The looks nodded respectfully to the vibrant, raucous golden age of Versace in the ‘80s, while offering a modern edge with a hint of austerity (sensible brown leather brouges, classic minimalist handbags, sweaters tied haphazardly around the waist, etc.).

“Dressing is framed as collective, carnal, unconscious work — what we wear is an articulation of our contexts, coloured by those who occupy them,” read the show notes. “Friends, rivals, hook-ups, spouses. Tailoring, négligée, denim, leather, and printed shirting rooted in the Versace archive. Rearticulated, designed for a full life; their details reflectinga contemporary reality.”

Less than 24 hours since Vitale’s debut and the fashion world is already abuzz, with industry insiders calling the collection “powerful,” “fun,” and “very rich.”

Ahead, see more highlights from Versace’s Spring/Summer 2026 show, which is truly the dawn of a new and exciting era.