“When everything fades, what remains is the essential,” said Giorgia Gabriele more than once. She was keen to stress that “essential” is not a synonym for aesthetic minimalism. Rather, it is a work of subtraction conceived as an invitation to permanence. “In such a chaotic and complex moment, the pressure and expectations of the market risk becoming a distraction. I felt the need to pause, to pare back the superfluous, and to reconnect with what truly endures,” the designer said.

Gabriele has turned her focus to the true wearability of garments and the versatility of a 24-hour wardrobe. Moving away from a static notion of seasonality, she has translated her idea of continuity into clean lines, a meticulous selection of fabrics, and the understated sophistication of the palette. Her spring collection aimed to blend the chic and the pragmatic: the Nila ballet flats, for instance, were lined in suede for comfort.

The rigor of tailoring, a cornerstone of the brand’s identity, was amplified by the contrast with the semi-transparency of mesh. Gabardine and split suede counterbalanced cotton, silk, and viscose. The Francis skirt and top were created to highlight raw materials in their most elemental form: fringes crafted from floating yarns were deliberately left suspended.

This need to “slow down in the race for appearances” also came through in the silhouettes and volumes, which were fluid and inviting. The color palette felt more attuned to the everyday than in past seasons: alongside shades of brown, ranging from beige to caramel to dark chocolate, powder blue, ecru, and black, the introduction of peony pink infused freshness and vibrancy into the collection.