Lorenzo Seghezzi’s runway debut was this season. His brand started in 2021 as a tool to release emotions during the tough times of the Covid pandemic, and it was launched with a certain dose of naiveté. This spring collection, though, was more structured, even if everything was still handmade by him. The queer community and Milanese nightlife were his guidance; they have always been part of his life, and he grew up going to clubs. Although Seghezzi defined the collection as a love letter to this community, he also wanted to highlight feelings such as the alienation sometimes experienced by those who fully live at nighttime. His approach, similar to that of a costume designer, was full of drama and theatricality, being mainly based on the corsetry that has been his signature style since the beginning. Long feathers, tight corsets, and eyelet fastenings—both real and tromp-l’œil—filled his collection.

Yelena Mojarova and Benedikt Sittler are the minds behind Moja Rowa, a brand “almost casually” born in 2022. After a shared experience at Vivienne Westwood, the couple decided to go to Mexico, where they unexpectedly stayed for three whole years, starting to create some of their first pieces, more as a game. Then, back to Milan, they moved from simple drops to more structured collections such as spring 2026, their sophomore effort. The idea is to preserve joie de vivre, especially in such a tough period, so they chose “Dance! Dance! Dance!” as their mantra for this season. Deadstock materials, in-house prints, and a recurring tie-dye—recalling their time spent in Mexico—are their core stylistic elements, together with garments and silhouettes they have made since they started out, like the sailor collar and the mermaid skirt. It was a joyful collection, presented as a sort of beauty pageant, complete with rosettes and identification numbers.