Gabriela Hearst called her spring effort a “recalibrating collection,” for it was realized largely with fabrics already in the designer’s inventory — 97 percent for wovens.

But what fabrics: buttery cashmere-silk blends that are cool to the touch, silky Sea Island cottons sourced from a small-batch, sustainable supplier in Barbados, and meaty linens, sometimes coated in gold.

“When I find something I like, I definitely stick with it,” Hearst said of her arsenal of luxurious materials, which for spring included the skins of invasive species for her chic version of earthy sandals.

The designer also stuck with the tarot theme introduced with her resort collection, this time exploring the Major Arcana, the 22 cards that represent significant life events, archetypes, and spiritual themes via characters, including a magician, a high priestess and a hanged man.

The latter character turned out to be Hearst’s favorite after she discovered a stash of gold charms — a moon, wand, skull and cup — that she strung on the fringe of handsome suede coats and skirts, which presumably tinkled beneath the swelling Max Richter soundtrack when the models strolled by.

Excepting novelty intarsia sweaters reproducing some of Hearst’s watercolor illustrations, the tarot theme was mostly whispered. “It’s one of the mysteries of our civilization,” Hearst said of the playing cards, which she spent the last six months researching.

Many designers this European season are using humble or unexpected fabrics to create grand silhouettes, including Hearst, who whorled cotton, linen and leather into grand puff sleeves on coats, blouses and dresses.

She’s practically a magician in coaxing so much chic from austere, body-skimming knit dresses and capes, or a dead simple V-neck cotton dress with the hem and sleeve edges embroidered to look frayed.

Oh, and this is what in journalism is called burying the lede: Actress Laura Dern opened the show in a lovely, full-skirted dress quivering with 2,400 leather flowers, all set by hand.

Hearst has many famous friends, and has named a bag after Dern, as she did so a decade ago when Demi Moore requested a smaller version of her structured, top-handle Nina bag.

“It’s still our bestselling bag,” Hearst said. “Thank you Demi!”