
If you’re wondering what’s up with all the naked dressing on the runway and red carpet — you are not alone. Though Swedish attitudes toward nudity are famously relaxed, Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson has never seen women as sex objects, so the trend has left him perplexed.
“I saw a lot of transparency, and I was wondering about why the transparency was there — are we getting completely naked?” he said. “It’s kind of puzzling to me, like people getting undressed, basically, so that struck to me as something I had to resist, or had to play with.”
The designer was inspired by his new show venue this season, the Collège des Bernardins on the Left Bank, a Gothic-style building dating back to the 13th century that he had done up inside like a cigar box — all rich tobacco hues.
It made an ideal backdrop for his spring collection, which toggled between lingerie-inspired slips and androgynous takes on menswear staples.
Models with spiky quiffs channeled a rockabilly attitude in suits made of paper-like crinkled cotton or patinated leather, paired with elongated cowboy boots. Beefy biker jackets, ribbed tank tops and flannel shirts amped up the butch factor.
Johansson has worked with boudoir references before, so the sheer lace hourglass silhouettes, some with corset lacing, didn’t feel completely off-brand.
Chances are young women today would wear the nude lace bustier top with a jutting neckline — fast emerging as a key trend in Paris — with a pair of Acne jeans, which this season came coated in plastic or covered in cracked paint. Or like Swedish singer Robyn, who created the soundtrack for the show, they might pair a glossy black leather pant suit with a lace bodysuit.
Who said you can’t have your cake, and eat it?
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