“This was, for us, an extraordinary opportunity to be able to launch our fashion department with probably one of the best collections in the world for the company, if not the best, and the largest,” said Paul Viguier, deputy director of Piasa. An almost archetypal Frenchman, he has long slicked back hair, oversized brows, and wears colorful little scarves tied tightly around his neck. I met him smoking outside the auction house. “We emphasize it’s about designers, it’s about creations, it’s not about fashion,” he said. “It’s not about wherever it is, I mean, is it wearable? Is it the right size? We don’t care. It’s about the item as a work of art. Like we don’t really care if a chair is comfortable, but at the end of the day, our collectors, they use their chairs. Even if they pay €200,000 or €300,000 for it. They just live with the work.”

Taking a look at one of the famous Lumps and Bumps dresses in the auction, it’s easy to categorize the objects as art. But despite the setting, one must remember that Kawakubo has always said that her work is just clothing.

The auction began with a modest start, kicking off with early ’80s handknit sweaters and simple, wool jackets from the brand that sold for $250-$400. Bargains! Walking into the Comme des Garçons boutique on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, just a few blocks away from Piasa, you certainly wouldn’t be able to buy anything at that price, save for a perfume, wallet, or perhaps a small accessory from one of the diffusion lines.

“There are a lot of private individuals who are going to come and get just a couple pieces they’re going to wear,” said Viguier. “I think people realize, now, that for a couple hundred of euros, you can buy a museum piece—a fragment of history.”