Elie Saab’s spring collection marks an evolution in the Lebanese designer’s aesthetic, as well as strategic direction.

Saab, best known for his opulent evening and red carpet wear, switched gears for spring 2026 to a focus on sexy, sporty separates in a collection that hit all the ‘80s notes anyone could want. See high-waisted pencil skirts, power shoulder blazers, polka-dotted tights, python trench coats, and Prince of Wales checks. It all came down the runway fast and furious to a pulsating beat.

There was nary a mother-of-the-bride suit to be seen.

Carine Roitfeld has been styling Saab’s shows since last year, beginning with his 300-plus look Saudi Arabian anniversary extravaganza in November. You could feel her influence here, with a silhouette practically lifted straight from the French editor’s closet and paired with plenty of cool shades.

It gave Saab’s work a jolt of energy. Backstage, the designer said that he wanted to focus the season on constructing pieces that can be mixed and matched instead of full looks, “to keep the space for any woman to choose what she likes.”

The focus on separates, as well as minidresses, draped jersey gowns and silk trousers treated to look like denim, continues the company’s deliberate shift toward daywear to spur global retail growth.

So far the brand’s plan has been working, said company chief executive officer Elie Saab Jr. Like-for-like sales have grown at 28 percent so far this year, he said, mainly driven by the ready-to-wear.

Saab Jr. laid out the expansion strategy to capitalize on the brand’s strong base in the Middle East, where it opened a handful of directly owned and operated stores across the region over the last three years, to expand its U.S. presence.

Next up will be a Miami flagship, anticipated in the second quarter of next year, followed by a West Coast location.

Saab Jr. brushed off tariff concerns and said sales in the existing New York flagship have not been impacted so far.

“As in any challenge, there’s always an opportunity,” he said. “If you are true to yourself, offering the right product and are well positioned, I believe there’s always space.”