Natalia Alaverdian loves tweaking an archetype. So, what might a modern-day Marie-Antoinette wear if she could “move between a picnic and a business meeting to swimming with sea creatures and partying with rock bands somewhere circa the end of the ’60s”?

Well, in A.W.A.K.E-land that meant “twisted girly” plays on sculpture: pastoral crinolines, hips structured as if to reinstate curves lost to semaglutides, new takes on her popular tendril skirts and even figurative swan heels or pompom gladiators—and that’s just for starters.

“I was obsessed with finding something silly and fun,” the designer said via video from her London studio. She explained the swan heels and the flappy “fin” shoes—which are fitted with a crepe-sized leather disc—by saying, “I felt like injecting levity, like a toy.”

Ruffles abounded, cascading down trousers, trenches, fitted column dresses and even little French marinières. Clearly, Alaverdian was having a ball pushing proportions to the max, revisiting collegiate stripes in fat, A-line tops and blowing up back-to-front denims with billowy flares. A lashing of Alpine kitsch came in red-and-white gingham or cow-print shoes. Part Heidi, part punk, and all in good fun. Even so, spliced amid the playfulness were some very simple, pretty tops, for example in white eyelet, and off-the-shoulder khaki cape and a rippled black halter blouse. A crinkled white skirt, a white evening dress with a simple ruffle in back and portrait jackets looked sophisticated yet not self-serious. On that note, AWAKE is known for saucy little tees, too and this time around one surfaced with strategically placed half-globes, a reference to body art, the designer said, but open enough to interpretation.

At a time where anything goes, there was something for everyone and plenty to choose from in this collection. With so much going on, it can be tricky to glean a clear message. At 77 looks, this lineup could have done with a stiff edit. But just maybe on the other hand that’s Alaverdian’s whole point: you can have your cake and eat it too.