My first introduction to the concept of a hair show was growing up, when I saw ads for Hair Wars in the salon chair. My second introduction was during Cycle 7 of “America’s Next Top Model,” in an episode where the models donned big, colorful wigs for a photoshoot. That was the first time I thought about hair as a specific form of Black art and expression. Hair is political, it’s emotional and, yes — it is art. 

The days leading up to the 2025 Met Gala (and the exhibit it spotlights) sparked plenty of discussion about Black dandyism, fashion and culture. Of course, that also included the topic of hair: The Friday before the First Monday in May, hairstylist Jawara Wauchope and stylist Jarrod Lacks presented “Black Hair Reimagined: The New Era of Beauty,” a modern take on the Black hair show tradition, which the two of them produced. It was an evening about connecting with your roots (literally) and acknowledging the history behind crucial parts of Black American beauty culture: expression and community.

The event — held at WSA in New York City — emphasized Black hair as art, identity, fantasy, resistance and legacy. Along with Wauchope, hairstylists Yusef Williams, Vernon François, Cyndia Harvey and Malcolm Marquez created an emotional, celebratory presentation representing multiple generations and styles. 

Presented by sponsors such as L’Oréal’s The Texture of Change, Pattern Beauty, Cash App, Ten to One Rum, and with makeup by Sir John and Sheika Daley, the evening brought together celebrities and creatives to celebrate the history and future of Black hair. Tracee Ellis Ross served as the emcee, giving her classic candid pitter-patter — at one point, she kept things extremely real by giving up on standing on the elevated stage. Paloma Elsesser, Justine Skye and Solange Knowles were also in attendance.

Hairstylist Yusef (whose celebrity clients include Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Tyla, Tyra Banks and Lizzo) kicked off the presentation with a section titled “Nostalgic Heat,” created in collaboration with stylist Patti Wilson. It began with an homage to ballroom culture, complete with dancers feeling their oats to Vanity 6’s “Nasty Girl.” The hair was skyscraping and ultra textured, with an updo that may prove to be the only time “bulbous” has ever been used as a compliment. It moved from an ode to ballroom culture into full “B.A.P.S.” energy, featuring gold lamé turbans and big, curly styles.

Vernon François’ looks followed, which he created in collaboration with Jan-Michael Quammie on styling. The hairstylist, whose celebrity clients include Lupita Nyong’o, Willow Smith and Amandla Stenberg, put forth creations for a section titled, “Freedom is Priceless.” This portion of the show evoked a winter storm, with huge clouds of hair overtaking the models. For one piece in particular I saw being built backstage, three hairstylists surrounded a black rack where they were looping individual strands of hair of varying textures to create what appeared to be a massive, puffy black cloud, slowly surrounding its wearer.

Next came “Flowers Only Bloom at Night,” by hairstylist Malcolm Marquez (whose celebrity clientele includes Doechii and Tyla) and styled by Jessica Willis. This section was a masterclass in crochet work and weaving, with bamboo and grass woven into gorgeous hair pieces. Marquez worked with Redken and Kérastase to create these looks, including a large, T-shaped black wig that redefined the meaning of “party in the back,” featuring an asymmetrical spectrum of rainbow appearing as soon as the model turned to the audience. The true cherry on top of the illustrious beauty came in the final moments with Julez Smith, Solange Knowles’ son, who walked the runway in a multihued green coat made of differing hair textures. Knowles was there, looking on like a proud mama — and trust me, it was truly a striking piece of work.

Hairstylist Cyndia Harvey (whose clients include FKA Twigs, Naomi Campbell, Kendrick Lamar and Frank Ocean)’s “Neptune Noir” sent viewers into the next stratosphere with her presentation. Gabriella Karefa-Johnson was behind the styling of this moody, alien-esque show. Staged with dark purple lighting, this felt like “Predator,” but make it haute couture. There was a braided spiderweb veil-turned-cape and gorgeous hair helmets. If this is the future of 3025, I’ll be right there. 

The best moment was the final look, which felt like a real homage to the Black hairstylist books from the ’90s: a huge, side-parted mohawk with multi-dimensional hair colors that somehow broke the rules of aerodynamics, swooping huge to one side and waving down around the back to the other side, but without a bend to be seen. I can’t imagine the amount of hairspray that went into creating that height and structure.

The evening ended with Echelon Noir co-founder Jawara Wauchope’s presentation of “Nocturnal Opulence,” styled by Carlos Nazario. This was the emotional core of the evening, managing to merge serious Runway Walking with a fun, old-school hair show energy. The models came to perform, honey, not shying away from a pose before they even started their struts. 

Their looks evoked the classic ’90s-era hair show: shiny, structured updos and curls slicked to the dome of the head. This was the moment the night needed, reminding the audience that, while it’s okay to take ourselves seriously, the best part of a hair show is the audience interaction and call-and-response. The room was an electric buzz of enthusiastic “alright”s and “go on, then”s for the evening’s final moments.

“Black Hair Reimagined” didn’t just present a stunning array of hair art; it honored the culture’s past while also styling the future in real time. This wasn’t just a hair show — it was a reset, a reminder and a revelation.

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