With nearly 18,000 restaurants in New York City—and nearly half shuttering within five years—longevity in the hospitality world is a feat few achieve. But for more than four decades, Keith McNally has defied the odds. The British-born restaurateur is the force behind some of Manhattan’s most iconic dining destinations: The Odeon, Minetta Tavern, Pastis, and, of course, the legendary French brasserie Balthazar, a longtime magnet for celebrities and downtown tastemakers.

Over the course of his prolific and often unpredictable career—he’s been called “The Restaurateur Who Invented Downtown”—McNally has racked up a trove of outrageous stories and A-list encounters. Now, he’s telling all in I Regret Almost Everything, a candid, unflinching, and often poignant memoir.

To celebrate the book’s release, 180 of McNally’s family and friends gathered at Balthazar on Tuesday evening. The guest list read like a who’s who of New York culture: Christy Turlington, Alec Baldwin, Padma Lakshmi, Anna Wintour, Diane Sawyer, and Tony Shalhoub were among those in attendance.

“Seeing so many friends, family, and colleagues show up to support me makes me feel that it’s definitely possible to fool all the people all the time,” McNally quipped to Vogue, seated alongside his daughter Sophie, son-in-law, and granddaughter.

The night began with a live performance by singers Lily Kershaw and Sandy Dalziel, their voices floating above the buzz of candlelit conversation. Actor Richard E. Grant, Saltburn star, read select passages from the memoir—equal parts riotous and raw—including McNally’s reflections on his 2018 suicide attempt and the lasting effects of a 2016 stroke, which left him with aphasia and a paralyzed right hand.

“I really admire his tenacity,” said Top Chef alum Padma Lakshmi, weaving her way through the packed dining room to greet McNally. The two embraced, and she settled beside him on a red leather banquette for a heartfelt catch-up.

Alec Baldwin was also full of praise for McNally’s singular impact. “Keith’s a magician,” he told Vogue moments before sitting down to dinner with his wife, Hilaria. “He’s got the code to the safe when it comes to defining Manhattan nightlife. Clubs come and go, but Keith’s restaurants—those are forever.”

The celebratory spirit was reflected in every detail: trays of Champagne (a nod to McNally’s tradition of offering a complimentary glass to solo diners), pomegranate martinis (his personal favorite), and, naturally, Balthazar’s famed steak frites with béarnaise sauce. Dessert brought out bowls of berries with cream and rich chocolate truffles.

Christy Turlington, a Balthazar regular since its 1997 debut, reminisced about the early days. “I was Keith’s neighbor on 11th Street when this place first opened, and I’ve been coming ever since,” the supermodel said. “It’s one of the best rooms in New York. The energy is always high and good—you always run into people you love.”

As the night drew to a close, McNally reflected on what he hopes readers take from his memoir. “That conventional wisdom is often not wisdom at all,” he mused. “That it’s okay to hold opposing views at once. That it’s okay to dislike what we’re taught is sacrosanct. But most importantly? Look for things that don’t confirm your narrative.”