Virginia Wine Country Is Finally Getting Its Flowers


Yes, Virginia has proven to be for romantic lovers — but now it’s taken its signature mantra to the next level, opening itself up to wine lovers as well. Indeed, the Southeastern state is quickly becoming a wine hub, set to rival more popular U.S. destinations like California, Oregon, and Washington.

Virginia’s vines span from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Shenandoah Valley, making the state a commonwealth of viticulture. With its distinctive terroir and climate, it isn’t trying to imitate wines created by its West Coast counterparts. Instead, it’s embracing its roots and environment and leaning into its unique qualities. From crisp whites like viognier to bold, elegant reds like cabernet Franc, Virginia wine is a collective force to be reckoned with, and you don’t want to miss it.

One of the first things to note when sipping on a Virginia wine is that you are truly tasting history. “Some of the first vines were planted after English colonists settled in the 1600s,” says Sharon Fenchak, vice president of winemaking and vineyard at Biltmore Winery. She adds that, over the centuries, there were “many failed attempts at making wine that was palatable” (climate change and disease in the area played a role), but that all changed in the 1970s when a few winemakers stepped in to truly understand the area and its ideal grape varietals. Fenchak calls the “significant progress” a turning point, guiding Virginia wine to where it is today. “Though California gets the praise, it’s Virginia that helped pave the way for American winemaking.”

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So why is Virginia’s wine getting its flowers now? Maya Hood, head winemaker at Early Mountain Vineyards, believes this is attributed to people’s desire to sip out of their comfort zone, aka of the mainstream regions, to experience the thrill of discovering newer wines. “These regions offer unique terroirs, distinct varietals, and untold stories that break from the familiar,” says Hood. “They invite consumers to explore new flavors, connect with local traditions, and be part of an exciting shift in the wine world.” Speaking of terroir, Virginia’s is particularly dynamic thanks to a “variety of elevations and soil compositions that result in dynamic and regionally specific wines,” says Hood.

Torrey Grant, sommelier at Leonetta in New York City, expounds on this: “You have coastal regions such as Eastern Virginia, Hampton Roads, Chesapeake Bay Regions, and the George Washington Birthplace AVA. Here, the diurnal temperature shifts are put in place by winds coming in off the Atlantic and the resulting temperature shifts.”

Inland, though, it is the Blue Ridge Mountains that have the greatest impact, he adds. “At altitude, the winds that carry through the peaks and valleys temporize the warmer climate and humidity,” says Grant. “As with any mountainous wine region, the soil types are disparate from millennia of geological movement.” These humid regions are home to grapes like tannat and petit manseng, while the drier appellations provide better conditions for ripening cabernet Franc and petit verdot. “Central Virginia and the Shenandoah regions are heavily impacted by the presence of the Blue Ridge Mountains, shielding the regions to the east from rain and wind,” adds Grant.

Hood notes that the most common varietals produced in Virginia are “French varieties, with a small touch of hybrid varieties.” Among these are standard classics like merlot, chardonnay, and the aforementioned cabernet Franc. But thanks to the perfect growing conditions, three have become synonymous with state. Read all about them below.

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Viognier

“Viognier loves Virginia,” Grant professes of the white varietal. “It’s low-yielding and can be at its most expressive in terms of aromas.” Fenchak describes the flavor of an unoaked viognier as zesty with orange blossom and peach while the oaked version “would have more oak-influenced flavors and a buttery finish if the wine has gone through malolactic fermentation.” She likes to pair it with a charcuterie board or seafood like grilled shrimp or scallops.

Petit Manseng

Hood is partial to this white varietal due to its “high acidity, texture, and aromatic complexity.” It is known for its fruity flavors, which feature stone fruit, dried fruit, and pineapple, as well as its nuttiness and texture. He likes to pair it with a dish like curry because the savory heat is a perfect companion for aromatic wine.

Tannat

This is a big, juicy, rich, dry red wine. It is concentrated, and full of flavors of dark fruits like raspberry and plum mixed with earthiness. It’s high in acidity and tannins, making it approachable and perfect to serve alongside meats and cheeses. “Whereas some grapes might rot in the humid climate, tannat is pretty rot-resistant and can thrive in Virginia,” Hood explains.

Virginia Wines Rules of Thumb

Venturing to the store to find a bottle of wine from Virginia can feel as daunting as climbing the Appalachians, but our experts are here to provide some direction. Fenchak suggests an easy way to start is with something you already like. “If you love a certain appellation or winery, you can certainly find that information on the label,” she says. “Also, certain vintages may be more impressive than others. Normally, knowing if you like something dry, semi-dry, or sweet should be indicated on the label.”

Grant takes a more whimsical approach and recommends looking for “wines that have a sense of place.” For him, this means looking for a wine that comes from a smaller plot of land, like a subregion, rather than a label that only indicates it comes from Virginia state or a larger region within it.

He also advises looking for wines or wineries that produce grapes that grow well in Virginia, like tannat or petit manseng. “[It] shows that you are trying to work with what the land gives you versus producing the most well-known and most heavily consumed grapes.” He expands on this, noting that the wineries that work with these lesser-known grapes are a sign of wanting to make the best wine possible from the area, which hopefully leads to a more delectable treat for the palate.

Ahead, uncork your curiosity at home with these expert-approved picks that prove Virginia’s wine is truly here to stay.



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